
Class. 
Book 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



Proper Care 



OF THE 



Hair and Scalp 



BY 



AC H. OHMANN-DUMESNIL, A. M., M. D. 

Formerly Professor of Dermatology and Syphilology in the St. Louis College of 

Physicians and Surgeons; the Marion-Sims College of Medicine; 

Formerly Member of the St. Louis Medical Society; of the 

Missouri State Medical Association, of the 

American Medical Association. 



WITH 66 ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT 




SAINT LOUIS: 

UNIVERSITY MEDICAL PRESS 

19 17 






Copyright, 1917 

by 

University Medical Press 



Printed in the 
United States of America 



Published in 
February, 1917 



MAR 26 1917 



©C1.A4G2046 



7? 



FOREWORD 

It is the usual custom to have 
a foreword or a preface to 
every book- We have not yet 
been able to determine whether 
it is an explanation or an ex- 
cuse. Be this as it may, to us 
it simply acts as a warning to 
read the volume with care and 
endeavor to become well ac- 
quainted with its contents. The 
present book needs neither 
apology nor explanation. 
Those who acquire it will be- 
come readily convinced of this 
by intelligent reading, and if 
this perusal arouses interest 
and leads to a desire for more 
information on the subject, the 
purpose of the book's publica- 
tion will have been attained. 

The Author. 



CONTENTS 



Page 

Foreword 3 

Table of Contents 5 

Introduction 11 

Chapter I. 

The Anatomy of the Hair and Scalp 13 

Complex nature of the skin. The Scalp is the hairy 
skin. The "bed" or dead hairs. Hair magnified. 
Different kinds of hair seen under the microscope. 
Microscopic view of hair. The root sheath of the 
hair. 

Chapter II. 

The Hair and Its Growth 16 

Proper handling of the skin. Glands of the skin. 
Functions of the hair. Length of the hair. Suther- 
land sisters. Hair a woman's glory. Papilla neces- 
sary to insure hair's life. Over-combing and over- 
brushing a positive disadvantage. The growth of 
hair is steady when not interfered with. Muscles 
with hair make it stand on end. 

Chapter III. 

The Color of the Hair 19 

Blonde and black ordinary division. Blondes vary 
from nearly white to rich blonde. Peroxide blondes. 
Brown hair of various shades. Black hair also varies 
in shade. Red hair and Titian red. Grey hair. 
White hair. Changes in hue not due to dyes. Green, 
blue and purple hair. Effects of light or its absence 
on color of hair. Ringed hair. 

Chapter IV. 
The Functions of the Hair 23 

The first function is protection of the skin. Protects 
from violence from without. Protects against tem- 
perature changes in the air. Pigment in hair, — 
small amount in blondes, more in brown hair, and 
a large amount in black. Hair protects by guiding 

Page Five 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



Page 
sweat. Sudden blanching of the hair. The case of 
Marie Antoinette. Wheat speculators' white hair. 
Premature greyness a family trait in some. 

Chapter V. 
The Care of the Hair 27 

The comb and brush. Brush and comb at least 
once daily. Care necessary to choose a comb, also 
a brush. Essential qualities in these toilet articles. 
The varieties of combs. Combs, how made and 
forms given. Tortoise shell, ivory, celluloid, horn, 
brass, gold, iron combs. Hard rubber combs popular. 
Hair combs for women and for men. The fine- 
toothed comb. The baby comb. The moustache 
comb. The beard comb. Antiquity of the comb. 
Ornamental combs. Iron combs. Metal or bone 
and horn combs. Sixteenth century era of ornamental 
combs. The high comb, front comb, side comb and 
barrette. What is necessary for a good brush. 
Ornamental backs. Moustache brush. Eye-brow 
brush. Military brush. 

Chapter VI. 
Head-Gear 39 

Men's hats subject to changes. Felt, hard or soft, 
summer straw. Fur Caps, civilian and military. 
Police caps. Fireman's caps and hats. Hat band 
presses on scalp and produces baldness. Many sorts 
of caps. Steel cap of the soldiers in trenches. Night 
cap. Chapeau of officers uncomfortable; only used on 
state occasions. Women's head-gear continually 
changing, usually straw and in winter made of felt. 
Savages wear no hats or caps; and their hair is 
splendid. 

Chapter VII. 

Shampooing 43 

Shampooing requires particular care. "Soft" water 
essential. Soap must be bland. Alkaline soap to be 
avoided. Lotions are not acceptable. Must not be 
too vigorous. Head of hair after shampoo should 
feel good. Care must be taken in drying hair, and 
electric fan avoided, as it makes hair brittle. Dry 
with hot towel. Medicated soaps are not dependable. 
Perfumed soaps to be avoided. Dandruff not a dis- 

Page Six 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



Pa 8 e 
ease; it is a condition requiring general and local 

treatment. Massage of the scalp. 

Chapter VIII. 

Cutting the Hair 50 

Cutting the hair is a modern custom. Only civilized 
men have their hair cut. Savages and barbarians do 
not. In ancient times short hair indicated slaves. 
Now it is convicts and prize-fighters who affect 
it. Long hair does not indicate strength. Styles in 
hair cutting are always changing. Singeing the 
hair has no advantage. 

Chapter IX. 
Hair Dressing 54 

A simple matter with men. An elaborate one with 
women. Hair dressing of men in China, in Japan, 
and in Africa. Among white men; among the 
Franks; among North American Indians; South 
Africa, women of Babylonia, Egypt, Greece, Rome, 
Gael. . Next are the Middle Ages. Hair-dressing of 
Rothrude. Mary and Martha. Mary Magda- 
len. Hair-dressing under feudal law. Joan of 
Arc. Anne of Austria, Madame de Sevigne, 
Madame de Maintenon, Madame de Pompadour. 
Hair-dressing of Swedes, Italians, Spaniards, Chinese, 
Japanese and South Africans. Korean hair-dressing. 
Hair-dressing of a Dahomeyan woman. 

Chapter X. 
Hair Restorers 69 

Solutions to prevent hair falling out. Also to stimu- 
late growth of hair. Formulas for hair restorers. 
Manner of using these preparations. 

Chapter XI. 
Superfluous Hairs 71 

Superfluous hairs or hairiness. Esau first hairy man 
mentioned in Bible. Hairiness is no sign of strength. 
Hairiness, pilosi of Pliny. Naomi Sutherland. 
Hairy men quite common. This hairiness also 
occurs in girls and women. Low-necked gowns will 
not make hair grow on chest of women. Bearded 
women. Women with moustaches. Women with 

Page Seven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

Page 
hair on face common. White hair growing from 
white of eye in man and in calf. Hairs in ears 
and nostrils; also growing out of moles in old women. 
So-called wild man. 

Chapter XII. 

The Beard 77 

The Deity with a beard. Assyrian Kings bearded. 
Sardana ladies. Abraham. Moses. Mahomet, 
Christ. Mussulmen all bearded. Crusaders' mous- 
taches and goatees. Greatest Generals of Antiquity 
smooth-faced. Hannibal bearded. Priests of Ro- 
man Catholic Church. Married and shaved; in the 
Greek Chuch have beards. Cardinal Richelieu had 
moustache and goatee. Jupiter. Neptune. Apollo. 
Henry IV., had his own cut. William I., of Ger- 
many had full beard. Bismarck only moustache. Bar- 
barossa. William II. Joffre moustache. Napoleon 
III. Van Dyke beard. Well kept beard. Tramp's 
beard. 

Chapter XIII. 
The Care of the Beard 89 

Wash and dry between hot towels. Must not render 
hair brittle. Manner of marcellizing the whiskers. 
It gives an uninviting appearance. The same reme- 
dies are to be applied that are used on scalp. Curl- 
ing of moustache requires particular care and atten- 
tion; not so much in vogue now as formerly. 

Chapter XIV. 
Wigs 91 

False hair in general. Curls, frizzes and switches. 
Not matched in all cases. False chignon. False 
frizzes, black with white hair. White wigs in Courts 
of Europe. Wigs among Greek and Roman actors. 
Actresses appeared in bare faces under Louis XIV. 
Now in English Courts wigs and periwigs still pre- 
vail. Women with Plica Polonica wear wigs to 
hide the disease. Men wear wigs to look better or for 
protection. Toupee is of no use. 

Chapter XV. 
Hair Dyes 96 

More a habit than a necessity. Coloring hair blue, 
purple and green is ultra and dying out Men begin 

Page Eight 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

Page 
by dyeing moustache black, then hair. This is kept up 
and finally insanity is caused by dye. Women hide 
red, grey or white hair with brown or black dye and 
they also become insane, driven to it by using the dye. 

Chapter XVI. 
Removal of Superfluous Hairs 99 

Practiced for many centuries. American Indian plucks 
and keeps on doing so. Orientals have depilatories but 
they are not thorough. Girls who have growth on 
upper lip most solicitous to have them removed. De- 
pilatories most employed. All lack being radical. 
Method most radical is removal by electrolysis. De- 
scription given. Hair is also removed by X-rays. 
In the former new growth of hair, in latter, thin 
scar forms. 

Chapter XVII. 
Splitting and Breaking of the Hair. 103 

Much care and patience required in these conditions. 
Some general condition which is cause must be treated 
by a skilled physician. Hairs split in two, three or 
more branches. In breaking of hair, it is brittle and 
must be returned to its normal condition. A mild 
shampoo, massage and very little oiling will do. 

Chapter XVIII. 
Knotting of the Hair 1 06 

Annoying condition. It is seen in hair of women and 
moustaches of men. The lumps cannot be made to 
shed. Cut them off and treat nervous special con- 
dition which is cause. 

Chapter XIX. 
Oiliness of the Hair 108 

Common enough. Caused by fatty material in food. 
Large doses of oil go through tissues. Skin gets oily 
and so does hair. Treat hair and regulate diet so 
as to avoid taking fats, oils or carbohydrates. 

Chapter XX. 
Dryness of the Hair Ill 

Occurs in men and women especially in those of 
lymphatic temperament. Hair breaks in small pieces 

Page Nine 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

Page 
more often in blondes. Following this is loss of hair. 
Depends upon a general atonic condition. Must have 
tonic treatment and food that furnishes fat to scalp 
and hairs. 

Chapter XXI. 
Shaving 114 

Very old custom but no pictures or documents to 
show it. Greek and Roman soldiers shaved. Pericles, 
Alexander the Great, Caesar. Then came barbers 
who shaved at first and then became surgeons. Ortho- 
dox Jew never shaves, uses scissors. Modern Jew 
does. Safety razor makes shaving easy. 

Chapter XXII. 

The Barber Shop 116 

Most simple in China, Japan, Russia, Turkey and in 
Orient. In this country are , comfortable. Barber 
talks much and says nothing. Shop should be aseptic, 
razors sharp and all tools shiny. All must be very 
clean. If not clean will give barbers' itch. 

Chapter XXIII. 
Baldness 118 

Dead hairs. Hairs easily separate. Problems pre- 
sented to physicians. Treatment. Diet. Local ap- 
plications. Good tonics. Baldness due to disturbances 
of general health; also due to local skin diseases. 
General baldness. Partial baldness. Spotted bald- 
ness. Prevention of baldness. 

Chapter XXIV. 
Greyness 1 26 

Greyness. Runs in families. The hair is plenty but 
color is not. Best leave it as it is. 

Chapter XXV. 
Practical Prescriptions 127 

Baldness. Barber's Itch. Dandruff. Falling of the 
Hair. For an Irritated Scalp. A Nice Application 
for use after Shaving. Insect Bites and Injuries. 
Itching of the Scaly. Animal Parasites. Perspira- 
tion (excessive). Perspiration (odorous). To Make 
Dry Hair Acquire a Lustre. Medicated Soaps. 

Hair and Scalp Don'ts ] 35 

Page Ten 



INTRODUCTION. 

The object of this book is to give the care of the 
hair and scalp in a manner that may be easily under- 
stood by every one. The subjects are treated from 
the standpoint of what every one of intelligence and 
common sense should know on these subjects and may 
be learned from a careful perusal of these pages. The 
object is not to make every man his own physician, 
but to give enough information to indicate those cases 
in which the services of a physician are required, and 
yet enough simple measures are advised to make it 
unnecessary to be continually calling for the doctor. 

The dominating idea has been to combine the utile 
cum dulce, or the useful with the pleasant. Not too 
much has been attempted but enough to give some 
small pleasure in reading and referring to its pages. 

It has usually been considered the proper thing 
to begin a work of the nature of the present one 
by a consideration of several basic facts which act 
as introductory to the subject. In the present in- 
stance these will consist in a description of the an- 
atomy of the hair and of the skin as well as their 
physiology. Thus, we find that the skin is the natural 
protective envelope of the organs and tissues lying 
directly beneath it. It wards off any sudden jar or 
other mechanical disturbing element and, in that man- 
ner, adds to the symmetry and contour of the body. 

With these preliminary ideas it is a very easy matter 
to read on the subjects which are taken up in this 
book and it is also much more satisfactory to under- 
stand the terms which are used. 

It is an idea with the laity that a book which is 
written by a physician deals with diseases and their 
treatment. The medical profession is certainly suffi- 
cient for the latter purpose and physicians are not re- 
stricted to the writing of books that are only medical. 

Page Eleven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

As evidence of this we need only look upon those 
which treat of eugenics, hygiene, physical development 
and a hundred other subjects of the greatest interest 
to the laity. 

The present book is neither a manual nor a text 
book; it is simply a guide on the proper care of the 
hair and scalp. The intention has been to make it suffi- 
ciently clear and comprehensive to infuse an interest 
in the subject in the minds of those who aspire to 
health and cleanliness as prerequisite of a healthy and 
contented mind and body. 

All has been stated in a more or less terse manner 
and as succinctly as consistent with a clear presentation 
of the subject. It would be rather supererogatory to 
enter into a long discussion of the necessity of such 
a book, because there is and it is, moreover, self- 
evident. To introduce this extended essay requires 
not long series of more or less desultory remarks, but 
rather a plunging into medicas res. 



Page Twelve 



CHAPTER I. 



THE ANATOMY OF THE HAIR AND OF 
THE SCALP. 

In this book it is conditions and not diseases that 
are considered. A glance at the annexed illustration 
(Fig. 1 ) will show the complex nature of the skin 
and will also impress upon us the absolute necessity 
of taking care of such a complicated organism, and 
the seeming difficulty that is often discouraging to 
him who tries to give proper care without being initiated 
into the methods which it is necessary to observe. 

The most tender part of the integument is the corium 
or true skin and it is absolutely essential to see that it 
is always properly protected from extraneous irritation 
and such other circumstances as interfere with the 
proper performance of its functions. 

The scalp is the hairy skin, which is attached to the 
skull. It is that portion of the skin from which all 
the hair arise and, on that account, it is rather thick 
in some portions. Thus, on the top of the head it is 
a good quarter inch in thickness and this is easily 
demonstrated in cases of accident when it is cut by a 
blunt or a sharp instrument. If a cross section of the 
scalp is compared with one of the skin the difference 
between the two is at once apparent. 

The common integument is thinner and does not 
show the same amount of hair or as large ones. By 
turning to Figs. 1 and 2, these differences are easily 
seen. The various layers of the skin may be seen 
and the glands connected with the hair shaft are also 
apparent. No attempt has been made to make this 
an anatomical lesson but rather to give an exact and 
common-sense view, such as will prove of use, and not 
permit errors to creep in. 

Page Thirteen 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

A fair amount of attention will be found beneficial. 
In Fig. 3 we have a picture of a cross section of the 
scalp wherein we are shown the bed hairs or what 
are usually called dead hairs. They have no papillae 
and consequently no nutrient arteries.. These hairs 
easily drop out and we then have what is ordinarily 
called falling of the hair. When we remember that 
the cause lies deep at the roots there is no wonder 
that it is such a persistent condition. It is for this and 
similar reasons that a few moments devoted to the 
anatomy will be found of benefit and render the read- 
ing of the following pages more intelligible. 

The reading matter below each figure will be suf- 
ficiently explanatory not to require further comments 
or remarks. 

The hair from the eye-brows and eye-lashes when 
examined under the microscope, appear comparatively 
coarse and are rich in pigment. Their root bulbs are 
large and have well developed papillae. The hair 
of the head is finer in texture and its pigment occurs 
in amount 'according to the color of the hair. The 
papilla is well developed and its blood vessels are also 
large enough' to furnish the necessary nutrition. The 
lanugo hair is very fine, appears colorless and usually 
lacks a papilla. 

The hair is an appendage of the skin that is but 
little understood and it would seem that those who 
know the least about lit, its functions and its diseases, 
are the ones who are the most ready to display their 
ignorance. We find these charlatans everywhere and 
they talk in a very glib manner, although, to one who 
knows, they easily betray the fact that they are not 
conversant with matters connected with the hair. In 
other words, they are ignorant pretenders who do 
more harm than good. 

In Fig. 3 there is shown the section of a hair 
magnified and the names of the various portions are 
indicated in such a manner that when they are alluded 
Page Fourteen 




Vertical Section of the 
Str. — Epidermis. 
S. — Blood Vessels. 
P. —Papilla. 



Skin. 







Fig. 2. 
Vertical Section of the Scalp, Showing Hair. 







Fig. 3. 

Vertical Section of the Scalp. 
Str. c. — Horny Layer. 
H. K.— Bed Hair. 
T. — Sebaceous Gland. 
H.— Hair. 
S. — Sweat Gland. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

to, it may be easily understood by the reader. This 
occurs in embryonic life at about the third month when 
the first buds of the coming hair are observed. At 
about the end of this month of development there oc- 
curs a dipping in of the epidermis which projects 
down and is soon covered by a layer of cells which is 
transformed into the external membrane of the coming 
hair. The extremity separates slightly to give place to 
the papilla which makes its appearance, and the process 
ends in a fully formed hair. 

The root sheath of the hair consists of a membrane 
in which the hair seems to be implanted. It is of some 
importance, as it forms a protecting membrane to the 
hair shaft and prevents its injury from external causes. 
It also protects by forming a medium for the capillary 
attraction of pus and thus prevent it from attacking 
the shaft of the hair. 

With these preliminary ideas it is a very easy matter 
to read on the subjects which are taken up in this book 
and it is also much more satisfactory to understand 
the terms which are considered. 



Page Fifteen 



CHAPTER II. 



THE HAIR AND ITS GROWTH. 

The hair requires careful daily attention. The 
ancients were fully aware of this fact and gave par- 
ticular attention to it. Physical exercise by toning 
up the muscles makes them more symmetrical and in 
that manner contributes to the enhancing of the beauty 
of the figure and its symmetry. These are qualities 
which are very much admired and it is the proper 
handling of the skin or integument that leads to such 
satisfactory results. In order to have a good skin 
such as is useful in its functions and handsome to be- 
hold requires some care, etc., which will be dwelt 
upon later. 

The various organs which are enclosed in the skin 
also require particular care, they being the sweat glands 
and the fat glands, small bodies which give the in- 
tegument suppleness, softness and make much for its 
good appearance and feeling. The proper care of 
the skin as a whole brings about a good condition of 
these organs and renders them efficacious in 
their functions. Furthermore, a neglect of this care 
will permit the integument to become rough, scurfy 
and exhibit the signs of neglect. It is for this reason 
that athletes present such a good appearance and that 
their skins are of an excellent texture and possess 
such a good appearance. 

The skin, as a whole, is not in the best condition 
unless care be given to its appendages and we will 
now begin to make a few remarks upon one of the 
principal appendages of the skin — the hair. 

Hairs are a most useful as well as necessary ap- 
pendage of the skin, for they have numerous and 
well defined functions to fill. These appendages are 

Page Sixteen 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

primarily protective and this very protection is what 
conserves the integument and adds greatly to the health 
of the individual. First of all we must understand 
what a hair is. It is simply a more or less cylindrical 
outgrowth of the scarf skin or thin cuticle and assumes 
a more or less long and cylindrical shape. Those on 
the head or scalp are characterized chiefly by length 
and are usually fine. It is in women that the pre- 
dominance of length is observed. In them the length 
is as much as six or seven feet in a woman not higher 
than five feet one inch. The writer has seen hair 
grow to the length of eight feet in a little woman of 
five. My readers may perhaps remember the Suther- 
land sisters, five in number, who had remarkably long 
hair and were not sisters at all. They exhibited at 
the dime museums and acted as an advertisement for 
a hair tonic which they assured me they had never 
used. However, the growth of hair was much ad- 
mired by women, especially those not blessed with 
any too much hirsute adornment. For, we know that 
hair is a woman's glory and much pride is manifested 
in a large growth. 

As shown in Fig. 3 a hair consists essentially of 
a shaft and a papilla. The latter is absolutely neces- 
sary to insure the growth and life of the hair and its 
destruction prevents the growth of the shaft and termi- 
nates its existence. The sebaceous follicles or fat 
glands are attached to the hair and serve to lubricate 
the follicle or sheath in which the shaft is found. This 
fat gland has much to do with diseases of the scalp 
and fills an important function in the preservation and 
well-being of the hair. Many diseases of the scalp 
take their origin in the hair and it is for this reason 
that the latter should be given the greatest care and 
attention, and not merely a perfunctory parting as 
is but too often the case. Tousled hair may look 
artistic but does not have a neat appearance. On 
the other hand, over-combing and brushing to excess 

Page Seventeen 






PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

do not act so advantageously as the fond possessor 
of the hair desires. When we come to this part of 
the subject we will be more explicit in our remarks and 
endeavor to tell our readers the proper method to 
follow in order to cultivate a fine suite of hair. 

Hair stands on end in great fright, terror, cold or 
excitement. The modus operandi is the contraction 
of an involuntary muscle which arises from the papilla 
of the hair and is inserted into the epidermis. When 
the nervous impulse is transmitted to this microscopic 
muscle it contracts and by this means changes the 
angle of implantation of the hair and makes it stand 
on end. This condition is marked in cats, dogs, boars 
and other animals as an indication of bad humor. 
These muscles are known as the arrextores pilorum. 



Page Eighteen 



CHAPTER III. 



THE COLOR OF THE HAIR. 

It may not be out of place now to speak of the 
color of hair. A fact not entirely uninteresting in 
connection with the hair is this quality. A very or- 
dinary division of this is blonde and black, but this 
is too radical and we must discriminate more closely 
and consider all the varieties. Blonde varies from 
the very light shades which are nearly white, and 
then through various gradations we come to the ash 
blonde. Among the handsome tints observed are the 
tawny and the golden blonde. We will not take into 
consideration the light yellow blonde color produced 
with the aid of peroxide of hydrogen; those resorting 
to this factitious method are known as "peroxide 
blondes." The method is one that is easily detected, 
as short crops of dark hair betray the use of the 
bleach. Another condition also betrays the use of 
the chemical — this is the falling out of the hair about 
the temples and other parts of the scalp, easily point- 
ing to the methods to which the artificial blonde has 
had recourse. 

It is a curious fact that these artificial blondes may 
have very dark or even black eyebrows which they 
regard as aids to brighten the blonde hair by con- 
trast. Brown hair has many shades, varying from a 
light color to a chestnut of a dark tint and verging 
closely upon a black. This last is merely a com- 
parative color which also varies in intensity to the 
very intense or what is popularly known as blue-black. 
It is chiefly in the tropics that such a marked color 
of the hair is observed. This intense black color is 
also met in some races not situated in the tropics such 
as the Spaniards. The gradations are sufficiently 

Page Nineteen 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

marked to enable us to easily recognize a Spaniard 
or Portuguese from a Hindu or Aztec by the hair 
color. 

A color that is striking and observed in all climates 
and zones and which is positively detested by some 
and admired by others is red. And yet, some very 
distinguished historical personages were red-headed. 
We may mention Queen Elizabeth of England, Mary 
Stuart, Queen of the Scots, Queen Victoria, Judas 
Iscariot, and other more or less notorious characters. 
Now, we must distinguish between red hair. We 
have examples of light red hair, pale in color and 
weak in texture. Then again, we see the sort called 
carrotty, which is a rather comic hue. This is not 
so picturesque as the flame-colored hair so very much 
admired by many. 

. We finally come to that which the celebrated painter 
immortalized and which is now known as Titian red, 
a dark red hair which in sunlight looks like burnished 
bronze. It is a beautiful shade that is seen but in 
comparatively few individuals. It has made artists 
and writers rave about it; and the comparative rarity 
of examples makes each one more remarkable. 

We often hear and speak of gray hair as an index 
of age, but as a matter of fact gray hair does not 
occur in human beings. What is usually denominated 
gray is a mixture of white and black. In some animals 
like the cat there occurs hair that is actually gray in 
color. The so-called iron gray hair seen in humans 
is a mixture of white and black and the gradations in 
color from white to black may be observed in the same 
individual. On the other hand, we see in some heads 
a growth of dark or black hair with one tuft of per- 
fectly white hair. This may be congenital or ac- 
quired. There are some families in which one of 
the forebears has this tuft of white hair and the de- 
scendants present the same peculiarity. This is com- 
monly alluded to as hereditary, or as a birth-mark. 

Page Twenty 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

As a matter of fact, it is a nervous peculiarity that 
is a common trait of the family that manifests itself 
in this manner. But this is entering into the domain 
of medicine. The location of these locks of white 
hair is quite interesting. Thus, we find the tuft in 
the fore part of the head, at other times at the back 
of the head, and occasionally it is a streak of white 
hair running from right to left varying in width from 
one-quarter to one inch, or it may be one running 
from the front to the back of the scalp. There is 
really no end to the number of varieties which occur 
in this distribution. A peculiarity in connection with 
these growths of white hair is their persistence without 
appreciable change, either in shape or in color. But 
one caution should be observed, not to mistake them 
for vitiligo, which is a disease, and indulge in many 
discouraging remarks over a condition that cannot 
be helped except in a cosmetic way. 

Some changes in the hue of the hair not due to 
dyes are often noticed. Thus, a reddish blonde is 
changed to a yellow by the use of borax washes and 
this will make it still more yellow if it be continued 
some length of time. A light shade of hair may be 
changed to a black, brown, or red color by using 
solutions of resorcin of different strength. The in- 
ternal use of pilocarpine will also cause hair to grow 
dark. 

A condition which occurs but seldom and excites 
the wonder and curiosity of its beholders is green hair. 
It is of a striking vivid tint and is never relished by 
the one who shows it. This condition of green hair 
is never seen except in workers in brass and the color 
derives its origin from the filings and fine particles 
separated in turning brass. A good and thorough 
cleansing of the scalp is sufficient to cause a disap- 
pearance of this accidental dyeing. This reminds me 
that it has recently been the fad to dye the hair blue, 
purple and green. 

Page Twenty-One 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

Another shade is an undefined black color in which 
a marked matting is visible and commonly seen in 
those who are filthy in their habits, unkempt and gen- 
erally untidy. Such individuals are happily not 
numerous and whilst they form good company for 
each other they are avoided by all those who respect 
washed faces, combed hair, and neat clothing, as well 
as clean habits and manners. 

A bright natural light will darken the hair. It is 
noticeable that those who live in tropical or sub- 
tropical climates are very dark haired, whereas those 
who live in glacial zones are inclined to be blondes. 
Another observation has been made that those who 
pass their lives underground will have white hair as 
has been so often observed in the salt mines of Siberia, 
in which a ray of light never enters. 

Ringed hair is an extremely rare condition in human 
beings, although normal in cats, raccoons, rats and 
other animals who use their incisor teeth. The hair 
so affected presents alternate narrow ring-like colors 
in which the hair appears white in some and of the 
natural shade of the hair in other rings. The cause 
of the white color is due to air or some other gas 
being in the hair-shaft. 



Page Twenty-Two 



CHAPTER IV. 



THE FUNCTIONS OF THE HAIR. 

After having said so much in connection with hair 
it may not be inappropriate to make mention of the 
function of this appendage of the skin. One of these 
functions which is easily apparent is that of protection 
of the skin. It is not alone a protection from violence 
from without but also from other irritating conditions, 
and a due consideration of these phenomena as well 
as the conditions presented by the hair will render these 
functions clearer and more easily understood. The 
latter conditions which are more or less irritating are 
those due to temperature changes in the air. Thus, 
we find that a certain element connected with the 
hair is more or less powerful as a heat regulator. In 
the central portion of the hair known as the medulla 
or core are situated a number of cells, known as pig- 
ment cells, which carry the coloring matter of this 
organ and give it that color which we have already 
considered. As a necessary corollary we find that 
this pigment exists in small quantity in blonde hair, so 
much so that, in very marked blondes, it practically 
amounts to nothing. The integument about these hairs 
is quite devoid of color although it is what is called 
white or light pinkish and is very delicate and easily 
affected by every variation in temperature. It is this 
very fact that renders blondes so susceptible to these 
changes and naturally leads to the contraction of ca- 
tarrhal diseases of the upper air passages and renders 
individuals with such hair more susceptible to the con- 
traction of these diseases and confers upon them the 
name of "delicate." As a matter of fact it is a 
very important matter and plays a very important 
role in the matter of the care and of the hy- 

Page Twenty-Three 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

giene of the hair. In those who have dark 
or brown hair, on the other hand, we have a less sus- 
ceptibility to sudden or continuous temperature changes 
and this is, no doubt, due to the comparatively large 
amount of pigment in the cells of the hair. We see 
examples of this in the inhabitants of the tropics who 
are not as susceptible to elevated temperature as those 
who have blonde hair. This has been the experience 
of Englishmen stationed in India who, after but a 
comparatively short sojourn in India, are forced to 
return to England in order to recuperate from the 
physical infirmities and diseases contracted in the torrid 
climate of the India station which knew them a longer 
period than was actually compatible with their perfect 
health and turned them into life-long invalids. Their 
blonde hair did not protect them as well as the black 
of the natives and when we add to this the heating 
properties of the alcoholics in which they indulged, 
we can easily understand their debilitated condition. 

The natives do not feel the heat appreciably and 
go about bare-headed in the sun, without any appre- 
ciable discomfort, being protected by their hair. 

The hair acts as a protective agent in another man- 
ner and that is as a guide for the flow of perspira- 
tion. The eye-brows, for instance, guide the sweat so 
that it flows down on the sides of the temples and 
thus is kept out of the eyes. The hair of the scalp 
induces an excess of perspiration to flow down the 
neck, and the whiskers in the same manner guide the 
sweat over the face and down on the front part of 
the neck. In this manner the burning sensation pro- 
duced by the perspiration is obviated and the indi- 
vidual enjoys comparative comfort. The lanugo hairs 
of the trunk are so distributed as to act as guides 
for the drops of sweat to run down in a regular man- 
ner and thus spare the more tender parts of the in- 
tegument. Another variety of hairs, the vibrissas of 
the nostrils and ears, are also protective in their func- 

Page Twenty-Four 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

tions by catching the dust on its way to these cavities 
and thus protecting the mucous membranes from this 
irritation of external origin. This protective function 
is in line with that of the skin as a whole. 

The protection afforded by the hair is of so much 
importance that we intend to devote quite a con- 
siderable amount of attention to its proper care, hy- 
giene and general rules of treatment to keep it in 
a good tone and normal state. Another function of 
the hair which must not be forgotten is that it is a 
protection to the underlying skull against traumatism 
which may be inflicted by blunt instruments such as 
clubs, billies, brass knuckles, gas pipes or clubs. All 
these are sufficiently dangerous weapons and yet the 
hair, if of a sufficiently luxurious growth, will often 
ward off or prevent what, in general, would be serious 
wounds or such as are attended by dangerous or even 
fatal consequences. This is more apt to be the case 
if the attacked individual has a thick "cow's lick" 
or whorl at the point which is struck by the instru- 
ment used in the attack. 

The criminal likes his hair cropped short because 
it makes him look "bad" and he glories in his criminal 
and bestial appearance and bull-dog look. His am- 
bition is to develop into a regular Bill Sykes. 

It may be looked upon as a work of supererogation 
to speak of white hair which is not of necessity a sign 
of senility. The writer has known of a case of sudden 
blanching of the hair in which all the hair of the 
scalp turned white in a single night. The cause of 
this was a most intense nervous shock. In the cele- 
brated case of Marie Antoinette her hair began slowly 
to turn white during her incarceration in La Con- 
ciergerie, and six weeks later, when she was beheaded, 
her hair was perfectly white. It is no unusual thing 
to see young men whose hair is all white before they 
have attained their majority. This is a common oc- 
currence in the case of stock and wheat speculators. 

Page Twenty-Five 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

The strain upon the nerves is one that is terrific and it 
reflects itself upon the capillary system. Typhus fever 
has the faculty of blanching the hair as well as some 
other depressing and exhausting diseases. Be this as 
it may, the nerve racking is marked. In the case 
of those who have led dissipated lives the result is 
the same, although the remote cause is quite different. 
There is no question but that indulgence in wine, 
women and song will leave its ineffaceable mark upon 
the hair. In some families all the members become 
prematurely gray and this is soon transformed into 
whiteness of the hair. 



Page Twenty-Six 



CHAPTER V, 



CARE OF THE HAIR. 

The proper care of the hair requires that it be 
combed and brushed at least once daily. The first 
thing that is to be considered in connection with this 
are the proper utensils to use. Of course, these should 
consist of a comb and brush and should be carefully 
chosen. The idea is not to go to a store and just 
accept any one that is offered because it is cheap. 
The cost is a consideration that should in no wise 
be noted when the real object is to obtain a comb 
and a brush that are proper for the intended use. This 
naturally leads to a consideration of the points that 
constitute the essential qualities in these toilet articles. 
Those who read these pages know very well that 
there exists an infinite variety of combs of all sizes 
and made of various materials. We will only men- 
tion a few of the most usual, and then consider the 
best and the most satisfactory for the use intended. 
The comb is intended to do what might be called 
the rough work and the brush is, in a way, a finisher 
which smoothes the work done by the comb. The 
primitive, unenlightened man uses a nail for a comb 
and the palm of his hand for a brush. We must 
not forget that there are many who do not use either, 
but permit the hair to take care of itself. 

With these we have nothing to do, either in person 
or in writing. They are best avoided. They are 
too prone to become familiar on less than a short 
acquaintance. As a curious example illustrative of 
the depths to which a human being may fall, these 
specimens are interesting to the anthropologist. In all 
other respects, and to all others, they are simply dis- 
gusting, and only aid in making a decent individual 

cynical. 

Page Twenty-Seven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

But, let us return to our subject. As we are now 
concerned with combs we will take into consideration 
the material of which they are made, how made and 
the various shapes and forms given to them, as well 
as the disadvantages which are possessed by these 
different ones, and the best that should be adopted 
from every standpoint. In this manner the prospective 
purchaser of a comb will have a guide by which to 
govern his or her choice. The materials of which 
combs are made are various. The material entering 
into these toilet articles plays a great part in the minds 
of purchasers. The most expensive material employed 
for combs is tortoise shell. The teeth are naturally 
much shorter than in ordinary combs. We next come 
to ivory combs which are very expensive also and 
have the great disadvantage of being liable to warp 
and must be straightened occasionally. They are rich 
in appearance and lend tone to a toilet table. A 
cheap imitation has been made of celluloid which has 
a peculiarity of exploding and taking fire. It is a 
form that should certainly be avoided. We then come 
to combs made of horn which are without doubt not 
so pretty in appearance but are reliable for wear, 
and even these have been imitated by making combs 
of melted horn which is brittle and has very inferior 
wearing qualities. The most popular comb is that 
which is made of hard rubber, as it is both cheap and 
serviceable. The scarcity of rubber renders even these 
necessary articles more expensive every day. Then, 
we have a kind of comb that was very popular at one 
time with those who had reddish hair, and these were 
lead combs which imparted a dark tinge to the hair 
by reason of the rubbing with lead. • One of the draw- 
backs associated with these was the possible danger 
of suffering from Saturnism or lead poisoning, an event 
which was far from rare. We finally have wooden 
combs which are not quite in fashion but which are 
quite popular with the peasants in Europe. They are 

Page Twenty-Eight 




Fig. 4. 

The Evolution of the Comb from Barbarous Times to the 
Present. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

light and do the work demanded of them in quite 
a satisfactory manner and are quite popular with those 
who employ them. Aluminum combs have appeared 
in recent times, but they are not popular. Another 
variety that had a vogue for but a very short time, 
are brass combs. Among negroes, in former times, 
especially among slaves, a carding comb was employed 
and it can be easily surmised that combing the wool 
was not a pleasure but a most painful and torturing 
duty exacted by masters. 

Having considered the material out of which combs 
are made, it is in order to describe the various forms 
of these indispensable toilet articles. To comb the 
hair of the head a comb must possess one quality above 
all others. The teeth must be so cut that the comb 
will go through the hair smoothly and not catch and 
pull out hair. The spaces between the teeth should 
be rounded and not cut square, or the process of 
combing will be a painful one. This is particularly 
necessary in those persons whose scalps are sensitive 
and tender. So it is necessary to examine this point 
carefully. A woman usually wants a long comb with 
a thick back. She must have something which she 
can pass through her hair without difficulty and which 
will inflict no pain whatsoever. A man, on the other 
hand, wants a short comb that is somewhat narrow 
and not at all cumbersome ; in fact, he prefers a small 
pocket comb which is always handy. A man's toilet 
is soon made and the care of his hair is, in reality, 
a secondary matter. It is not unusual to see men who 
comb their hair with their fingers; but, as they say, 
they are not ambitious to be or to pose as Beau Brum- 
mels. They certainly are not. 

A well known variety of combs is the fine-toothed 
comb and this is usually made of ivory with very small 
teeth that are closely approached to one another. 
Among these we notice the baby comb which is pro- 
vided with a handle and is quite a favorite with young 

Page Twenty-Nine 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

mothers, who seem to be very solicitous about the 
up-keep of the few sparse hairs on the scalp of their 
offspring. So solicitous are they that they will per- 
sist in removing whatever milk crust may have shown 
itself and keep on scraping until they make life a 
veritable torture to the helpless babe. This over-solici- 
tude to keep the child's head clean is a very mistaken 
idea. The scraping of the scalp with a fine tooth 
comb is irritating; the same result may be obtained 
by using some bland oil like fresh olive oil, or oil of 
sweet almonds. As a matter of fact, the condition 
is a diseased one and requires the attention of a physi- 
cian who is sufficiently competent to make it disappear 
and avert any recurrence. The art of what not to 
do cannot be too much impressed upon the minds of 
meddlesome mothers, and the more this is impressed 
the better the children will thrive. The family physi- 
cian should give his advice and make it as impera- 
tive as he possibly can and demonstrate to the young 
mother the correct manner of handling her suckling, 
and thus lead to a proper knowledge of rearing the 
child as it grows in years. For, it is still true that 
"as the twigs are inclined the tree will grow." The 
mother's duty is to incline this twig in the proper direc- 
tion and obtain the much desired result. 

As a matter of fact, the baby comb should be 
abolished and a proper method of treating the scalp be 
adopted. As the babe's tissues are delicate and easily 
injured, whatever means are employed should be the 
opposite of irritating or rough. We have observed that 
in late years this pernicious custom of being continually 
engaged in combing babies' scalps has ceased to a 
great extent, and much milder means to make them 
free from milk-crust have been substituted therefor. 
The child is now entering into its rights, and, as a 
natural consequence, we are being daily promised a 
much better and more healthy generation. 

Speaking of fine combs should not permit us to 

Page Thirty 





Fig. 5. 

Italian Comb of Sixteenth Century. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

omit a reference to moustache combs, a fad to which 
younger men are addicted as a desire to present a 
well groomed appearance. This is a fashion which 
is certainly doomed to be short-lived although it may 
persist among the old beaux, whose ambitions and 
desires are stronger than their capacities. This variety 
of comb is marketed under two forms, the tortoise shell 
and the ivory. The former has more class to it and 
is considered eminently proper by the devotees of this 
custom of combing, who, when young, excite our pity, 
and when old, give rise to amusement. The true man 
gives his moustache a stroke of the brush and is not 
continually devoted to the comb which he carries in 
an elaborate case in his vest pocket. The habit of 
moustache combing is looked down upon as a useless 
and unimportant part of the toilet. When done in 
public it is simply vulgar. But this is a tonsorial 
fashion which is rapidly disappearing and it will not 
be long before it will have more of a historic interest 
than any other. 

Now we have these so-called coarse combs to attract 
our attention. They are, without doubt, the most 
popular of all because they make the operation of 
combing the hair a more easy one. These are the 
ones most affected by women. The comb must have a 
very thick back, as this gives it much more stability 
and lends much force to this toilet article. It is more 
easily drawn through the hair, making the operation 
of combing much less fatiguing than it would be with 
a lighter or thinner comb. The material of which 
these combs are made are hard rubber, horn, bone or 
celluloid. Tastes differ in regard to what choice 
should be made, but for a good serviceable one the 
best is that made of horn. That which is of the least 
service is made of vulcanized rubber. Still it is the 
one which has the greatest vogue. It is easily kept 
clean, is smooth and fills all the ordinary requirements 
of the toilet. Ordinarily, this comb has one-half of 

Page Thirty-One 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

its teeth rather coarse and those of the other half 
are comparatively fine. However, some combs are 
so made that all the teeth are coarse and these are 
the most popular with those who use the brush to 
smooth the hair. 

In speaking of fine combs no mention was made 
of the variety which has two rows of fine teeth which 
are rather short, and which is ordinarily known as 
a fine-tooth comb. This is made of vulcanised rubber, 
wood or of ivory, the latter being most popular. The 
celluloid sort is too brittle and has never found many 
purchasers. It is better because, at best, these combs 
are not serviceable and do not last. These are rather 
long and are very useful, especially to employ on the 
long hair of women. There is a short, coarse comb 
affected by men as it does the work very rapidly and 
in conjunction with a brush gives a satisfactory result. 
Another variety of fine comb which is more of a 
plaything than an article of toilet is the tiny comb 
which is found in what are known as vanity cases. 

We now come to another and radically different 
variety of combs and one which we are inclined to 
call ornamental. They are all necessarily coarse but 
have a pleasing appearance and a use which is cer- 
tainly more ornamental than useful. As far back as 
literature extends and sculptured rocks inform us, this 
variety of comb was employed by the Assyrians and 
Babylonians, and from there trailed to Egypt and kept 
on marching through Greece and Rome. After the 
fall of Rome, during the Dark Ages of Europe, this 
fashion persisted up to modern times and even to the 
present day. A brief consideration of the history of 
the modern comb will bring us to a knowledge of 
ancient, medieval and modern history, and in that 
manner prove as interesting as it is instructive. Of 
course, this involves quite an amount of research and 
an attempt will be made in this direction. Before 
entering into a consideration of ornamental combs it 

Page Thirty-Two 




Fig. 6. 
Sixteenth Century Comb (Italian). 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

may not be uninteresting to mention some which I 
consider peculiar. Thus, I saw in Charleston, South 
Carolina, combs made of iron which had been nickel- 
plated. They were of crude workmanship and rough 
and would tear out the hair when used. The only 
thing which they had to recommend them was their 
cheapness, and the fine appearance presented by the 
article. We might go on and speak of the gold combs 
which were affected by the aristocracy some two or 
three hundred years ago, but this luxury we leave to 
the subject of ornamental combs. And yet, a comb 
seen in modern times was one of iron inlaid with ivory 
and mother-of-pearl and having a silver filigree around 
it. The workmanship was most excellent and the teeth 
were very smooth. The entire comb showed a high 
order of skill. The origin of the comb was Kabyle 
(from Northern Africa) and the make had quite a 
savor of Moorish origin. In addition to what has been 
stated small gold chains hung from either side; so 
that in reality it was an ornamental comb. Such are 
really curious and nowadays find their place in mu- 
seums as curiosities. 

This leads us to consider the ornamental comb and 
its attributes. In a search for the origin of the comb 
it was found that the neolithic woman used a twig 
or a piece of bone for a comb to hold up her hair. 
This custom is one that has survived the ages. In 
very . remote periods bars of ivory, silver and gold 
were employed for this purpose, and even at the present 
day Italian women use a bar of bone around which 
the hair is twisted. A persistent and thorough search 
of ancient literature has not shown the existence of 
combs, plain or ornamental, except in the Greek and 
Roman satirical authors who speak of the golden 
combs of the patricians and hetaerae. But we do 
not find satisfactory allusions to ornamental or ex- 
pensive combs until the Sixteenth Century, when luxury 
was rampant and the women controlled the golden 

Page Thirty-Three 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

keys to fortune and spent fortunes on a little foible 
or folly. 

The Assyrian, Babylonian, Egyptian, Greek and 
Roman records furnish us little information. Instead 
of combs these ladies employed ribbons or head circles 
made to imitate crowns and they were satisfied to hold 
the hair against the scalp by these means, as a reference 
to the portraits of Aspasia, Sappho, Cleopatra and 
other well-known characters of antiquity will show. 
At times, a crown of flowers was enough. 

The ornamental high comb is perhaps the best ex- 
ample of luxury in combs that we possess. The best 
examples which we can see are among the high-born 
ladies of Spain who affect them. They are made 
of tortoise shell, are elaborately carved and encrusted 
with precious stones, and throughout bear complicated 
filigree work in gold and silver, the work of Moorish 
artists who are particularly expert in this art of deco- 
rating. The stones which are encrusted embrace all 
those of high price and the wealthier the wearer the 
more valuable the comb becomes. A Spanish hidalgo 
will not hesitate at the cost of such a bauble. He will 
gracefully pay the price demanded for it. It is these 
little articles of the toilet which lend so much charm 
to the fair Andalusians and make them so much sought 
by Northern admirers. This variety of ornamental 
comb was much affected by the beauties of the French, 
German, Austrian, Spanish and Italian Courts in the 
Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries. Some more 
combs which might very properly be included in the 
ornamental class are the front comb, the side combs, 
the back comb and the barrette. All of these may 
be plain and ordinary or they may be ornamental by 
inlaying gems or precious stones such as rubies, em- 
eralds, diamonds, sapphires and others of that kind 
for the wealthy; or colored glass and rhine stones for 
those of more moderate means, but there must be the 
appearance of precious stones, as that adds much to 

Page Thirty-Four 




Fig. 7. 

Sixteenth Century Comb (French). 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

the general effect. Besides, it is argued, we do not 
know that the rich really wear genuine precious stones. 
They may be only skillful imitations. A comb which 
has not been mentioned whose use seems to be limited 
to little girls is the round comb. This is invariably 
made of rubber and is also affected by men in the 
East Indies to hold back their hair in a proper shape. 
It is certainly a curious sight to see a man wearing 
a round comb under his turban; but, it is such an 
ordinary custom in India as to excite no curiosity. 

The preceding consideration of the comb has not 
been intended to be an exhaustive treatise on the 
subject but rather an extended notice of this indis- 
pensable article of toilet. That volumes could be 
devoted to it goes without saying, but that the few 
remarks that have been made may not be totally devoid 
of interest is the hope of the writer. 

Among the toilet articles which seem to be indis- 
pensable is the hair-brush and this requires as much 
care for its selection as the comb. There are certain 
requisite qualities which should be possessed by every 
comb to make it useful as well as serviceable; and, 
it may be added, there exist as many forms and vari- 
eties of hair brushes as of combs. The first and most 
requisite part to examine are the bristles. These should 
be such as to be capable of fulfilling the functions 
which it will be called upon to fill. The quality of 
these bristles so far as stiffness and solidity are con- 
cerned should be carefully examined. Another point 
is to see to it that the bristles are sufficiently numerous. 
Another point to exact is that the bristles be not split 
whalebone, as so frequently is the case, or stiff vege- 
table fibres, as but too frequently happens. It is an 
absolute necessity that they be hog's bristles and pre- 
ferably Siberian. Of course, one need not be an 
expert in the brush-making trade, but a little experience 
in the examination of these necessary toilet articles will 

Page Thirty-Five 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

soon give an experience sufficient to make a judicious 
choice. Above all do not accept cheap brushes for 
they are never really good. It is well worth one's while 
to examine these brushes critically. 

Some whale-bone brushes are very cunningly made 
and bleached with so much skill as to deceive all but 
experts. The vegetable fibre hair brushes are so com- 
mon in appearance as to deter anyone from indulging 
in the purchase of one. It must never be forgotten 
that a good-looking back does not mean a good brush. 
So that we may begin by taking into consideration 
the various portions of a hair brush which attract the 
attention. To begin with, as we have just said, the 
most important part is that which has the bristles. It 
is not alone necessary that these be of the perfect 
sort, but it is equally important that they be set in 
the back sufficiently thick to be serviceable. A hair- 
brush with an insufficiency of bristles is no more service- 
able than a board of the same size, and simply spoils 
the hair. One with bristles that are too stiff splits 
the hair and is worse than no brush at all. So here 
again must come in a certain amount of judgment 
in the choice. A beautiful back is no excuse for poor 
bristles. In fact, it acts as a bait for the unwary. 
An essential quality in a brush is that the bristles be 
implanted solidly and not give way easily. The work- 
manship may be easily judged by this and a good 
hair-brush always has the bristles well set, thus giving 
it a longer life and affording more satisfaction to the 
one using it. It is not necessary that the bristles be 
long in a hair-brush; they should be of a moderate 
depth but thickly set, otherwise there will be brush 
trouble. The backs are more or less crude and made 
of rosewood, box, mahogany, or some other hardwood. 
There are some which are made of celluloid, hard 
rubber, and equally cheap material. They are the 
most popular forms and those which are the most 
unreliable for a toilet table. Being cheap makes large 

Page Thirty-Six 




Fig. 8. 

Boxwood Fine Tooth Comb — 1792. 




Fig. 9. 
High Spanish Comb. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

sales but also makes the brush less serviceable. The 
backs of hair-brushes are plain or ornate and it is 
these latter which have afforded artists the greatest 
opportunities to display their talents. Thus, tortoise 
shell or mother-of-pearl backs offer fields for the dis- 
play of an artist's talents, and the richness and variety 
in which they are finished make them, in some cases, 
veritable works of art. To begin with, the manner 
in which they are sculptured arouses admiration in 
the minds of all art connoisseurs. The backs are 
much admired but not so much so as those which are 
inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearl. The ones 
having filigree work of silver and gold or Arabesque 
ornaments in silver and in brass are also highly prized. 
But as works of art these with miniatures sunk in the 
wood are the most highly prized. Still a picture in 
mosaic makes a brush attain a high value in accordance 
with the artistic worth of the work. Then again, 
as the height of luxury, we have the backs of hair- 
brushes decorated with jewels, of greater or less value, 
according to the tastes or means of their owners. Such 
are a luxury that only those gifted with much money 
can afford. 

Among the different brushes there is quite a variety. 
Thus, there is the hair-brush for the hair of the head 
and the large and heavy one is most affected by women, 
whereas men prefer lighter ones. The makers of 
these brushes have gradually made them lighter, but 
not too much so. Among the lightest ones are the 
eye-brow brushes which the ladies of fashion employ 
to smooth bandeaus. 

A somewhat heavier, but nearly as light a one, is 
the moustache brush which is affected by the young 
men and also by their elders who have heavy 
moustaches. These latter are the ones who use the 
brushes most assiduously. For their beards they use 
the hair-brush which answers all purposes very well. 
Of course, he who uses all these helps to his toilet 

Page Thirty-Seven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

naturally looks well groomed. But a lady's toilet 
table is never complete unless it has a camel's hair-brush 
which is very useful to pass over the face to remove 
any very small pieces of scarf skin which still remain. 
It is a very pleasing as well as useful adjunct to the 
toilet. 

We now come to two other sorts of hair-brushes. 
One is the military brush very much in favor with 
young men, who are desirous of having a thorough 
brushing of their hair. As this brush comes in pairs 
both hands may be employed at one and the same 
time. The result is one that is usually eminently 
satisfactory and the user thereof feels better after its 
use. Military brushes as usually made are good and 
from the standpoint of the manufacturer are both good 
and efficient. But one brush which has proven itself 
a veritable abomination is the wire-brush. It is crude, 
difficult to handle and is very apt to injure the scalp 
and be the indirect cause of erysipelas of the head. 
It also splits hair, tears it out by the roots and 
inflicts pain upon the user. It requires courage and 
endurance to employ these brushes. There is another 
brush that is also fraught with disagreeable points and 
that is the electric hair-brush which has almost entirely 
disappeared. It was simply a rotary brush moved by 
electricity and much in favor with lazy barbers. It is 
no longer seen and the damages caused by it have also 
disappeared. It was a plaything which caused much 
damage and did not brush as efficiently as when that 
operation is done by hand. 



Page Thirty-Eight 



CHAPTER VI. 



HEAD-GEAR. 

What is included under the generic name of head- 
gear includes hats, caps, and bonnets, the former being 
masculine and the last feminine articles of apparel. 
Men's hats vary in shape and material, and like 
women's are subject to many and frequent changes 
which are known as styles. The hats of men are felt, 
either soft or hard, and straw. They are of all colors 
and their shapes are most wonderful to gaze upon. 
They vary from that like a plate to the tall stove- 
pipe. Fashions and tastes are the governing factors 
in these matters. Men's summer hats vary from the 
soft white felt hat to the broad-brimmed Panama. Of 
course, the very light Bangkok straw hat must not be 
forgotten. A popular form which has kept its own 
for thirty years is the New York Yacht Club shape 
which is still in favor. All these will come up again 
in the future and bid fair to outlive many generations 
to come. Other forms and fashions are certain to 
make their appearance for a brief time, but the older 
styles will persist. We can hardly be expected to 
speak of the various forms of soft and stiff hats which 
will be different every season and each of which will 
have its devotees. The differences in style are but 
slight, indeed, and often must be pointed out to us 
by hatters who, perhaps, may be called experts. All 
hats are looked upon as a necessity by those who pur- 
chase them, and, in but very few instances, are they 
ornamental. 

There is one fault inherent to all hats, which is that 
they exercise more or less compression on the scalp 
throughout its entire circumference. The pressure in- 
terferes with the free circulation of the blood of the 

Page Thirty-Nine 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR A.XD SCALP 

scalp and this latter will, in turn, cause baldness or 
falling of the hair. And this is not confined to stiff 
felt hats, but is produced as much so by soft felt 
hats, the hat-band in either case acting in this manner 
as much, in the one case, as in the other. The marks 
of compression may be easily noted on the scalps of 
those who wear hats, more especially hats that fit 
snugly but which, in reality, are too tight. To obviate 
this, recourse has been had to caps. These articles 
of head-gear suffer from the same disadvantages as 
hats. Caps may vary from the light silk motoring cap 
to the fur cap. There is an infinite variety of caps, 
suchs as we daily find on the streets, and then there 
are the various military and naval caps which vary in 
style according to the ideas of the wearers. In civil 
life we find some pretty heavy caps, such as worn 
by policemen and firemen, and they, like all other 
forms, labor under the disadvantage of being binding 
on the heads. The band is the inconvenient part in 
all of these and yet, unless a cap, like a hat, fits 
snugly, the first gust of wind will carry it off. 

A cap that is entirely out of the ordinary is the steel 
cap worn in the trenches in modern warfare. They 
are used as a protection against bullets and shrapnel 
and serve a very good purpose for this. They are held 
on the head by means of a strap passing beneath the 
chin. It is a cap which has been made a fashion by 
women who desire to introduce new styles. The ^"inter 
cap for men is designed to keep the head, neck and 
ears warm in cold weather. A hat, of which no men- 
tion has been made, and which is heavy, is the chapeau 
worn by Knights Templar and by the officers of the 
Army and of the Navy with their dress uniform. These 
are very impressive with their plumes and other accom- 
paniments and are always worn on occasions of cere- 
mony and on the whole are very uncomfortable head- 
gear. The fireman's boiled leather hat is probably the 
heaviest head-gear worn by men. It weighs about 
Pa, 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

seven pounds on the average and is designed to save 
the head from injuries inflicted by falling bricks, tim- 
bers, etc., and is hung to a wagon of the fire de- 
partment to be donned when necessary. The sou- 
westers of sailors and of fishermen made of oil skins, 
are also heavy and, whilst a good protection against 
salt water, are anything but comfortable to wear. 
Those who use these head coverings are usually en- 
gaged in hard work and the scalp becomes wet with 
sweat and the hair is anything but benefited by this. 
The effect of this head-gear is to wet the hair and mat 
it and put it in a bad condition, as well as to favor 
its early falling out. But these little inconveniences 
do not deter these men from persisting in the custom of 
wearing what they consider the proper head-gear. 
Many of those mentioned have been discontinued by 
civilians, although the military and naval caps have 
been continued. 

This naturally brings us to a consideration of 
women's head-gear. These, for the most part, are 
caps and straw hats, although the ones made of felt 
are seen quite frequently during the winter months. 
The two former are light in weight and the last be- 
come quite heavy in accordance with the demands of 
fashion. To attempt a description of the different 
varieties would be well-nigh impossible except for an 
expert milliner. It may be stated that the gradations 
between a small triangle of lace to an elaborate Gains- 
borough hat are almost infinite. In Europe, every 
country has its distinctive women's cap and the na- 
tionality of the women wearing it may be surmised 
from its shape and general appearance. Volumes have 
been devoted to this subject, and, whilst very in- 
teresting, it would hardly be in place to describe them 
here. The head-gear of women is a complicated mat- 
ter from a poke bonnet to the latest Parisian con- 
fection. In this country the popular head-gear for 
women is a sun-bonnet, so-called, and for morning 

Page Forty-One 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

wear a mob cap or boudoir cap as some call it, which, 
in reality, is a night cap. Some have also denomi- 
nated it a dusting cap. The name after all is merely 
a matter of taste, the protection of the hair is the 
principal point. It is only among the civilized that 
head-gear is an important part of the wearing ap- 
parel. Savages and barbarians have never worn head- 
gear and, as a result, they have fine hair and a great 
deal of it. In this, as in many other things, we find 
an advantage in a return to nature. Many so-called 
improvements are merely a multiplication of incon- 
veniences and harmful conditions which had best been 
let alone. But, despite all the sermonizing in which 
we may indulge, every woman's head will turn to 
look at a new hat which may have appeared at an 
assemblage or meeting be it religious or lay. As the 
Psalmist said, "vanitas varitatum, el omnia vanitas." 



Page Forty-Two 



CHAPTER VII, 



SHAMPOOING. 

The subject of shampooing is one that requires par- 
ticular care and attention, both in the matter of its 
practical use and application, and so far as its in- 
discriminate indulgence, by those who are not experts 
is this particular form of hair cleansing. The requi- 
sites for a proper shampoo are clear "soft" water and 
a soap that is non-irritating, which makes an abundant 
lather, and which is easily applied without injury to 
the scalp or hands. The question with us has been 
whether shampooing is a custom or a habit. If the 
latter, it is a bad one, more especially if badly done. 
By the latter we mean the strong rubbing of the scalp, 
and over douching of the hair with alternate hot and 
cold water. In addition to this, the barbers and 
attendants of beauty parlors, have their favorite lotions 
not alone to recommend, but to use upon unsuspecting 
customers. This is one of the pernicious evils con- 
nected with shampooing. But, to return to the proper 
method of shampooing. We may premise by stating 
that it must not be too vigorous and rough; on the 
contrary, it should be mild, soothing and refreshing. 
A head of hair, after a proper shampoo, should im- 
part to its possessor a feeling of well-being and com- 
fort, and not be a source of annoyance and dis- 
comfort. A good shampoo should, in nearly every 
respect, resemble a massage of the scalp. The idea 
of the shampoo is to make it a cleansing operation 
and not a torture. The gentle application of the 
soap and laving of the hair and scalp are operations 
that should be pleasing to the subject and sought after, 
rather than the reverse. As we have stated above, the 
water that is employed should be soft or totally devoid 

Page Forty-Three 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

of alkalies, as these latter have a tendency to render the 
hair shaft soft and more or less pultaceous. It is not 
necessary to destroy the hair in order to cleanse it. 
In men the operation of shampooing is a compara- 
tively easy matter; but, in women, it is an operation 
which requires some care, as well as skill, on the 
part of the operator. As we have stated, shampooing 
is a detergent method, not alone to cleanse the hair 
and scalp, but also to render the former lustrous and 
give it an appearance of vigor, and thus promote its 
growth and put in it a force that will keep it healthy 
and prevent its falling out. In the case of women, 
who have long hair, this part is to be carefully washed 
and still more carefully dried. In the case of both 
men and women, this drying out is but too often ac- 
complished by the aid of electric fans, which do the 
work so rapidly that they leave the hair in a dry, 
brittle condition and make the whole operation more 
harmful than beneficial. An important fact to con- 
sider is the soap that should be employed. It also 
should be bland, soothing, not over alkaline and free 
of all irritating substances. To find such a soap in- 
volves some discrimination, and yet it is a comparatively 
easy matter. The best soap for this purpose is, with- 
out doubt, Ivory soap. Perfumed soaps are not good 
from the fact that they are made of rancid fats, whose 
disagreeable odor is concealed by perfumes. The green 
soap is notoriously strongly alkaline and eminently 
calculated to soften and destroy the hair. Its irritating 
properties are such as to be anything but pleasant. Its 
alkali dries the hair markedly and, far from producing 
a growth, strongly conduces to bring about a falling 
out, and all its attendant evils. Of medicated soaps 
the less said the better. Their use is simply a bait to 
induce self-medication and, even for this purpose, a 
mistaken idea is formed that they cure when in reality 
they do not. We do not purpose to advertise all the 
soaps on the market, as the majority cannot honestly 

Page Forty-Four 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



be recommended. If we are to believe the circulars 
of manufacturers, each one makes the only good soap. 
The rank and file of physicians know little or nothing 
about soaps. Under these circumstances, a middle 
course seems to be about the safest. After being sham- 
pooed the hair must be dried and this operation re- 
quires some care. It is not to be done in a hap- 
hazard manner but carefully, and in such a way as not 
to render the hair dry or brittle. The best manner of 
drying is by means of warm or even hot dry towels; 
a man's hair may be rubbed with the towel, a woman's 
should be squeezed so that the least moisture may 
be absorbed by the cloth. In this manner the hair 
is preserved and is in a condition fit and ready for 
dressing. The proper method of preparing Ivory soap 
for the purpose of shampooing is to place it in water 
and leave it there until it is converted into a 
thick paste. This is spread upon the scalp and the 
hair and forms a proper medium for the desired pur- 
pose. It is very easy to handle and its bland qualities 
make it pleasant as well. It is particularly liked by 
women and the results obtained by its aid are always 
pleasing and satisfactory as well. We must not omit 
the mention of a medium for shampooing which, for 
a time, enjoyed quite a vogue. This is quillaja or 
soap bark, a vegetable product which is bland and 
quite detersive. It is capable of furnishing a large 
amount of lather and is an efficient cleanser unaccom- 
panied by any disagreeable after-effects. With the 
exception of the two mediums we have mentioned there 
exist very few formulae for good shampoo mixtures. 
Those which are so generously advertised remind us 
of the ancient Roman warning: caveat emptor. 

Dandruff is really a condition of the scalp which is 
characterized by a shedding of the cells of the scarf 
skin, but it is not limited to the scalp because, as a 
matter of fact, the entire skin sheds these scales and 
it is an effort of nature to dislodge sources of irrita- 

Page Forty-Five 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

tion which if permitted to remain would soon cause 
itching. Every time the skin is washed some of these 
scales are taken off. 

Among the troublesome affections of the scalp dan- 
druff, or dandriff, is counted as being a constant an- 
noyance and requires attention at all times. This is 
really a disease and requires all the care and attention 
which may be devoted to it and is easily enough amen- 
able to treatment. It is sufficiently disagreeable, from 
a cosmetic point of view, at all times, to draw more 
than ordinary attention to the continuous presence of 
the white scales which seem to be continually multi- 
plying. 

Dandruff has the peculiar faculty of always making 
its presence known. It is a very easy matter to 
recognize those who are the subjects of dandruff, for 
their clothes are always sprinkled with the white 
scales, which are easily separated from the skin and 
carried by any light movement of the air. These 
scales are usually dry, light and will readily attach 
themselves to the fabrics of all clothing. Another 
variety of scales found in some cases of dandruff are 
more or less greasy, and do much in the way of spoil- 
ing clothes. These are also very annoying to those 
whose dress is affected. In any event, the presence 
of the trouble is patent to every one. There is no 
cosmetic that will hide it and the cleaner the skin is 
made, the more apparent does the dandruff appear. 
Persistent washing or shampooing is not sufficient, but 
a certain amount of medication is necessary. The tone 
of the nervous system must be raised and a better 
condition of the scalp or bearded skin obtained. So 
far as local treatment is concerned an application once 
daily of the following lotion will give good results. 
It will not cure unless general treatment is also taken. 

Page Forty-Six 





Fig. 10. 

Seborrhea (dandruff) of Beard. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

The lotion is composed as follows : 

^ Beta naphthol, four scruples, 
Alcohol, 80%, two ounces, 
Rose water, 
Florida water, of each one ounce. 

This should be applied thinly on a gauze pad to the 
scalp once daily. A very good preliminary to this 
treatment is a thorough washing of the scalp. There 
are those who complain that the dandruff returns ; this 
is not to be a cause for surprise, and the reason 
is that they have not taken any internal treatment, 
or discontinued taking it too early. It always re- 
quires quite some little time to effect the change that 
is sought and to place the tissues in a good, strong, 
and healthy condition. In the cure of seborrhea of 
the bearded skin, the same symptoms exist and the 
treatment is similar, except that the affected part should 
be shaved every day and shaved close, so as to be 
smooth. In such a case, the result will be quicker 
and give more satisfaction. 

The condition of dandruff is a stubborn one and 
its treatment requires much patience and persistence. 
No matter where located, sufficient care and faithful- 
ness in carrying out the treatment will be followed 
by improvement and ultimately by a cure. The matter 
of the constitutional treatment should be confided to 
an honest, careful, and competent physician. Massage 
of the scalp is an operation that requires both dexterity 
and gentleness. The various manipulations such as 
rubbing, tapping and dressing must be done in such 
a manner as to feel pleasing to the subject. The 
effect is not alone exhilarating and pleasant but the 
results are rejuvenating if we are to accept the testi- 
mony of those who have felt it. The method to be 
employed in massage of the scalp is thus described 
by a professional masseur: "The procedures which 
Page Forty-Seven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



I have found most useful are the following, usually 
employed in the order given: 

( 1 ) Digital kneading from forehead to occiput. 

(2) Hacking from before backward. 

(3) Chucking, one hand placed upon the fore- 
head on the side of the head, the other opposite. 

(4) Tapping. 

(5) Hacking. 

(6) Head rolling, flexion and twisting both active 
and passive, repeated four to eight times. 

(7) Stroking from vertex to base of skull, down 
back of neck, and along the sub-maxillary groove. 

(8) Vibration — shaking. 

(9) Pressure. 

(10) Hypnotic stroking. 

In cases of great immobility of the scalp (a "hide- 
bound" condition), when necessary, a better hold of 
the scalp may be obtained by grasping the hair be- 
tween the fingers close to the roots. Care should be 
taken, however, not to give so great latitude to the 
movements as to produce unpleasant sensations from 
pulling the hair. 

By closely following these directions the best of 
results may be obtained in the way of massage of the 
scalp. It is this method that is followed by pro- 
fessional masseurs. The good results obtained are 
chiefly to be attributed to the fact that this opera- 
tion brings about a better and more equalized circula- 
tion of the blood in the scalp. The soothing influence 
of the hypnotic stroke is also pleasing and brings a 
period of rest to the course of the blood and thus per- 
mits it to exercise its full nutritive power upon the 
tissues. This massage is one that is much sought 

Page Forty-Eight 




Ifc' 



Fig. 11. 

Massage of the Scalp (the Soothing Stroke). 
Digital Kneading. 







Fig. 12. 
Massage of the Scalp (Kneading of Forehead). 







- ■ . <y ■..-■ . vii-j-i- ■•.-. ,. ...■_••■• 

Fig. 13. 

Massage of the Scalp (the Hypnotic Stroke). 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

after by those who have experienced it at the hands 
of an operator, who is skillful and careful. The 
awkward punching, rough rubbing and brutal hair pull- 
ing done by those who do not know the elements of 
massage are the things which have rendered this opera- 
tion so distasteful. One experience with an expert 
will completely change this aversion into a positive and 
marked liking for the process. 



Page Forty-Nine 



CHAPTER VIII. 



CUTTING THE HAIR. 

Cutting the hair is a product of modern civilization. 
For it is a notorious fact that savages and barbarians 
do not know what hair-cutting is, and artists, poets 
and other devotees to the muses are also proud of 
their long hair, and utterly abhor any resemblance to 
a convict. In ancient times long hair was looked upon 
as an indication of great physical strength, and the 
superstition went so far as to state that man's strength 
lay in his hair. It was a common belief that if the 
hair was shorn the strength was lost, as proven by the 
celebrated cases of Hercules and Sampson. It was by 
ruse and artifice that their hair was cut, and their 
downfall secured by the consequent loss of strength. 
A modern Hercules was Sandow, but his hair was 
worn short, and his strength was in no way diminished. 
The growth of long hair was cultivated in Feudal 
times as the distinguishing mark of a free man from 
slaves, who, at this period, were forced to wear their 
hair cropped close just as convicts are today. The 
former had no liberty and the latter have no civil 
rights. It would almost seem that in all times cropped 
hair was looked upon as a disgrace. In ancient times, 
a soldier with short hair was regarded as a coward, 
or, at least, one afraid that the enemy would seize him 
by the hair and thus prevent his escape and force him 
to fight. In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries 
and the early part of the nineteenth, all soldiers and 
sailors wore their hair long and rolled it into what was 
called the pig-tail. It was quite some time before 
this custom was abolished and that of having short 
cropped hair fully established. 

We have omitted to mention another class of indi- 

Page Fifty 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

viduals who affected close-cropped hair and these are 
prize-fighters. This was the invariable custom for- 
merly, but latterly, they permit their hair to grow to 
respectable proportions. One who introduced this 
latter custom was James Corbett, otherwise known as 
"Pompadour Jim." Still another modern class who 
adopted short hair were professional wrestlers as a 
method of safety, against hair-pulling, in catch-as- 
catch-can contests. If we were to follow all the vari- 
ous changes in the styles of dressing hair among men 
they would be as great as those observed by women. 
But, at present, we are concerned with the modes of 
hair-cutting and these modes are quite various and 
varied. One of the early styles of hair-cutting, which 
is still practiced in some parts of Europe and in the 
rural districts of this country, is that of placing a 
quart cup on a boy's head and cutting all the hair 
projecting beyond its rim. It is no doubt picturesque, 
but has always proven unsatisfactory to the victim. 
The boys much prefer the services of a barber to the 
amateur efforts of their mothers and, before long, it 
is the professional who has all this work to do. There 
are many professional barbers who prefer the use of 
clippers, as the work is done in much shorter time and 
does not require the care and attention that the use 
of shears requires. And yet, a good hair-cut, by an 
expert, is rapidly made and it lends very much to the 
pulchritude of the subject. The art of hair cutting 
is one that is not completely mastered in a short time. 
It requires some study and pains to master it. Be- 
sides, it is looked upon as an art and, as all very 
well know, an artist, like a poet, is born and not 
made. This fact is what has led hair cutters to 
call themselves tonsorial artists. Whether this be right 
or wrong, it is a very good rule to choose your hair- 
cutter carefully, before trusting your hair to his kind 
mercies and ministrations for, sometimes mistakes will 
occur. It is a difficult matter to advise men as to 
Page Fifty-One 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

hair-cutting. Some like close-cropped hair in Summer 
and Winter; others consult the weather conditions to 
regulate the length of their hair, and a third class pay 
no attention to what they seem to regard as unneces- 
sary details. Each man no doubt is a law unto him- 
self, and insists upon his own ideas being carried out 
in practice. A man who has but four or five hairs 
on his head, and insists upon their being cut, finds 
every barber willing to do so and to charge him the 
full price for an elaborate hair-cut, but de gustibus non 
disputantur. The matter of cutting the hair in women 
is one that should be studied with much care and 
attention. In the first place this measure is adopted 
for the purpose of promoting the growth of the hair, 
and should be carefully done, so as not to spoil the 
growth that is already present. The better means to 
employ for the encouragement of the growth is to clip 
off about a half-inch of the free ends of the hairs and 
permit them to grow without any artificial hindrance. 
Such a course is followed by an increased growth 
and it matters but little what the color of the hair 
may be. There must be no untouched hair left be- 
hind, but every one must be cut. This cutting of 
the hair like the others which have been described is 
for cosmetic purposes. Outside of this we have hair- 
cutting for remedial purposes such as the cutting 
short of hair in males and females after a pronounced 
falling out of the hair following some acute disease, 
such as typhoid fever or erysipelas. These are the 
cases which usually require a short clipping and which 
result in an abundant growth of hair after it is cut. 
In such cases, the impatience of the patient is soon 
rewarded by a rapid growth of the hair which is 
abundant. The only drawback, if such exist, is the 
fact that much of the new hair will be white, but this 
condition will not be a permanent one. 

A peculiarity of this blanching of the hair after 
typhoid fever or erysipelas is that it frequently occurs 

Page Fifty-Two 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

in streaks, instead of being evenly distributed over 
the entire scalp. But this is not a permanent condition 
and will spontaneously disappear, so that there still 
remains hope which will be fulfilled if the one so 
affected takes tonics, more especially ferruginous ones. 
A little hope and patience and faithfulness in taking 
the tonic, together with confidence in the attending 
physician, will work wonders and lead to a restoration 
of a perfect condition and the one hoped for, in a 
comparatively short time. Such has been the experi- 
ence of physicians and patients. One more word in 
regard to hair-cutting. All barbers, hair-cutters or 
hair-dressers insist upon giving the hair a singe after 
cutting it, alleging that it prevents the juice of the 
hair from falling out and thus retains the vitality of 
the hair. The only advantages that are to be derived 
from a hair-singe consist in the additional fee de- 
manded by the operator. There is no danger of the 
hair losing its juice as it does not contain any, as a 
reference to the description of the hair which has been 
given will show. The persuasive powers of those who 
wish to indulge in the singeing of the hairs of others 
may be great, but they are not true. 



Page Fifty-Three 



CHAPTER IX. 



HAIR-DRESSING. 

Hair-dressing is a very simple matter with men, 
although it becomes very complicated, in the case of 
women. Of course, the above is merely an expression 
of what the common opinion is upon these subjects, 
and a consideration of hair-dressing, in specific cases, 
will demonstrate to us that this opinion is a very false 
one. Hair-dressing among the savage tribes of the 
negroes of Africa is indeed a very complicated as 
well as elaborate affair, more especially in the men. 
An idea of this elaborateness may be gained from the 
annexed illustrations. Among the Chinese the entire 
scalp is shaved with the exception of that part where 
the pig-tail arises. Among the advanced Chinamen 
of today the hair-dressing closely imitates that of the 
Caucasians. The Japanese, who formerly shaved the 
entire scalp with the exception of a ring of hairs which 
was left standing, following the style of the white 
man cut the hair short. In fact, the predominance 
of the Aryan over all others shows itself in a marked 
manner and bids fair to persist. Different portions 
of different countries have their own styles of hair- 
dressing among men as we find them among the women 
in all lands and countries. That they have not varied 
for centuries is a well known fact. Today, hair- 
dressing among white men is limited to four styles. 
The hair is parted on either side, in the middle or 
in the back. The hair is brushed away from the 
part and the ceremony is done. There is still another 
style which consists in brushing the hair straight back 
more especially when it is cut in the roached style. 
This is the most convenient as well as the most rapid 
to dress and is much affected by men of immature 

Page Fifty-Four 




Fig. 14. 

Assyrian Head Dress. 



;yrm*7*&$m** i <mk 




Fig. 15. 
Egyptian Coiffure. 



C^Y 




Fig. 16. 
Ishtar in Babylonian Head Dress. 




Fig. 17. 
Pescan Dressing on Athenian's Hair. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

years. In ancient times the Franks, who were a very 
war-like nation, had a custom of dressing their hair 
when about to engage in a battle. The warriors each 
took a thick tuft of hair, on the vertex of the head, 
and then wound it tightly with a thin strip of hide, 
so as to make it stand erect. This done, they liberally 
smeared it withm red ochre under the impression that 
the sight of these red tufts would strike their enemies' 
hearts with terror. The tuft was held together by 
a copper ring. The North American Indian is also 
ornate in his hair-dressing, when he is on the war- 
path. The ordinary warrior will gather together his 
scalp lock and tie it around, usually with a deer's 
tendon, and in the tuft so made he will stick the 
feathers of a turkey or of a heron. In addition to 
this he will put on his war-paint. The Indian Chief 
comes in the full panoply of war. In addition to his 
war paint and his lock of hair with feathers in it, 
he has a double band, all garnished with feathers 
and reaching to his feet. He then presents a most 
noble appearance and is ready to fight and die with 
his brave warriors. He is then the noble red man 
as he has been so graphically described by Fenimore 
Cooper. Those whom we see nowadays, outside of 
the Wild West shows, or moving picture reels, are 
unwashed, unkempt, and as lazy a band of vagabonds 
as this country affords. The only intelligent ones are 
half-breeds. 

Another class of savages to whose method of hair- 
dressing we desire to allude is the negro of Equatorial 
and South Africa. He is a peculiar product of the 
soil. He does not adopt his peculiar hair-dressing 
for purposes of war, or of battle, but rather through 
vanity. He desires to make himself attractive to his 
duskv dulcineas and call out their admiration as well 
as elicit their good opinion. It would be rather a 
difficult task to describe the peculiar and various modes 
of dressing the hair which are in vogue with these 

Page Fifty-Five 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

Africans. We may say, in a few words, that they 
have their wool cut in various designs, in order to leave 
it standing in the form of circles, ovals, diamonds and 
various other geometrical designs. 

The hair-dressing in women is a most interesting 
as well as complicated subject. When we hie back to 
the ancient Egyptians and Babylonians we find that 
the care taken of the hair was of a more or less primi- 
tive nature. They simply combed their hair and used 
a fillet, not caring to give any undue time or care 
to the art of making the final result pleasing or of 
an artistic nature. The simplicity of the Egyptian 
is well shown in the annexed illustration depicting one 
of the daughters of a Pharaoh. It shows us that the 
daughter of an all powerful ruler, to whom nothing 
was denied, apparently did not possess a skillful hair- 
dresser. As we progress in time we may note a Greek 
lady having her hair dressed by a maid in rather 
primitive style. A reference to the illustration will 
demonstrate this. This picture was taken from an 
antique vase. When we consider the Assyrian, the 
hair was worn of a pretty good length and curled at 
the ends, as is very well shown in the figure which 
also depicts the broad band encircling the head. A 
simple hair-dressing was that of an Athenian belle 
which may readily be perceived in the accompanying 
illustration. The Roman lady's hair-dressing was cer- 
tainly more ornate as well as becoming. In borh 
instances, the chief as well as paramount question 
was to present a good appearance. It would seem 
that the women of Gaul exerted no particular pains 
to render themselves more attractive. But, of course, 
in those times they were hardly classed as being even 
civilized, much less enlightened. As we progress in 
time we will find hair-dressing more complicated and 
ornate. After this consideration of the dressing of hair 
we must naturally come to the dressing of the hair 
in the Middle Ages. After that, we will describe it in 

Page Fifty-Six 




Fig. 18. 
Juno. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

the period of the Renaissance and then take up the 
same subject in modern times. All of these will neces- 
sarily necessitate much description and many illustra- 
tions. The latter, of course, will be the most in- 
structive, as well as interesting, in connection with 
the subject. 

A very instructive as well as illuminating part of 
the subject is hair-dressing in women at the present 
day and this is of especial interest to those who pay- 
any attention to this part of the manners and customs 
of modern life as we see it in our travels at home 
and abroad. It is more especially so today when 
we take into consideration our more intimate relations 
with Oriental nations. 

When we come to medieval times we find that the 
hair dressing of women was quite simple, a fact easily 
determined by references to portraits of the period. 

Examples of this kind are numerous and put 
us very much in mind of the Ancient Greek and 
Roman women not to mention the Assyrian and 
Egyptian ones, who, in spite of their high ranks and 
position, were very much in favor of simplicity in their 
hair dressing. Thus, at the beginning of the Christian 
era, Mary, the mother of Christ, Martha, her sister, 
and Mary Magdalen, the sinner, parted their hair 
in the middle and left it hanging on either side. This 
simple hair-dressing was one that was practiced by 
nearly all the women of Judea. It was quite popular 
and has its hold upon women even unto this day. 
A modification of the simple part was having a bandeau 
on each side, the ends of this being placed in a 
chignon at the back of the head. This was so ar- 
ranged that it soon became fashionable. The plain 
part in the middle is practiced to this day and it is 
regarded as quite the proper thing in the Island of 
Korea, where a bride always parts her hair in the 
middle, as being quite the correct mode and the latest 
Page Fifty-Seven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

in nuptial styles. Ortrude, one of the wives of Charle- 
magne, had a very simple hair-dressing, although it 
was rich and worthy of the dignity and power of her 
husband. It was not for a very long time that elaborate 
hair-dressing was introduced. Thus, we find this 
austere simplicity reigned until feudal law was insti- 
tuted. Then it is that we find the hair-dressing of 
women underwent as great a revolution as the laws 
for men. It was then that the hair-dressing began 
to become elaborate. One of the earliest fashions was 
the heraldic hair-dressing in which a gold band held 
the hair and this band was surmounted by coats of 
arms, in that manner indicating the rank and titles of 
its wearer. A simple hair-dressing was that of Joan 
of Arc, the Maid of Orleans. As she was always 
warring, and wore a helmet, she had her hair cut 
short over her forehead in .the shape of the modern 
"bang." She adopted this head-dressing to prevent 
her hair from coming over her eyes and thus inter- 
fering with her vision. That the adoption of this style 
was advantageous is proven by her subsequent vic- 
tories over the enemy. This dressing of the hair did 
not die, but was revived for little girls as well as of 
many who had passed the age of puberty. It has 
been very popular, in modern times, on account of the 
facility with which it may be carried out by all those 
who depend upon simply combing and brushing their 
hair. But it must not be supposed for a moment, that 
there was no such thing as elaborate hair-dressing in 
feudal times. 

A simple and cursory investigation of the hair- 
dressing in those periods will establish the fact that it 
was not alone ornate but complicated as well. Thus, 
we find that the grandee dames of the various courts 
depended very much upon their hair-dresser, as much 
perhaps as upon their private advisors. As the readers 
of these pages fully know, Louis XI, of France, de- 
molished the feudal system and simplicity once more 
Page Fifty-Eight 




Fig. 19. 
Venus with the Bow. 




Fig. 20. 
Empress Faustina. 







Fig. 21. 
Ancient Crowns. 




Fig. 22. 
Joan of Arc. 




Fig. 23. 

Catherine de Medicis. 




Fig. 24. 
Marguerite de Valois. 




II I 

Fig. 25. 

Madame de Maintenon. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

established its reign. Henry II had for wife Catherine 
de Medicis, who wore a black velvet skull-cap that 
came to a point in front, and had a row of small curls 
projecting from it. Anne, of Austria, and Madame 
de Sevigni, who were contemporaries of Louis XIII, 
wore their hair in small curls over the forehead and 
had an elaborate dressing in addition. Were we to 
take all the various reigns of these sovereigns and the 
hair-dressing of their various wives and mistresses, our 
task would never end. However, it may not be amiss 
to mention some, as they were the ones who set the 
fashions and the imitation of them was the great factor 
in establishing customs and distinctive styles in hair- 
dressing and coiffures. 

It was under the reigns of Louis XIII and XIV, 
that the hair-dressing of women was most complicated 
and that it was the best in appearance. It was then 
that hair-dressing as an art reached its apogee. Those 
who have followed this branch of the customs of peo- 
ples, and other sartorial arts will readily recognize 
the truth of this. It may be asked by some hyper- 
critical readers, why so many French styles have been 
mentioned, and it is merely necessary to remind them 
that the centre of style and fashion always was in 
France. Even today it is to Paris that all women 
turn to learn the latest fashions. It is natural that 
we should do the same, as the votaries assembled 
at Fashion's shrine. So we will continue to follow 
this lead, and merely hope that it will turn out both 
interesting and profitable to all to adopt a style that 
is easy to follow and susceptible of being done quickly. 

The most simple hair-dressing of which we have 
a pictorial record is that of Mary, the mother of 
Christ, her sister Martha and Mary Magdalen the 
Sinner. This was a simple part of the hair that ran 
from before behind with the ends on the sides hanging 
down. This style, when it was adopted some cen- 
turies later, was modified by making the hanging hair 

Page Fifty-Nine 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AXD SCALP 

into bandeaus, one on either side. The ends of the 
bandeaus were tucked into a chignon which was curled 
on the back part of the head. This is a style that 
still has a vogue at this day, and is much affected 
by women, who are desirous of adopting simple styles 
of hair-dressing. It is one that is invariably adopted 
by brides in Korea. To resume the subject, we may 
state that the most elaborate hair-dressing of the time 
of Louis XV was that of Madame de Pompadour, 
herself an artist, painter, sculptress and writer of no 
mean capabilities, and her hair-dressing was the best 
one of her period. Herself a beautiful woman, she 
was a paragon, after she had undergone the kind 
ministrations of her coiffeur. Another beauty who 
preceded her was Madame de Maintenon, who was 
always recognized by her peculiar hair-dressing. She 
affected a small square of lace whose form was de- 
termined by a silver wire which held the lace in 
position and determined its form. This fashion was 
not followed to any great extent, because the lace 
and the silver wire required means on the part of 
the one who indulged in such a luxury. Anne, of 
Austria, wife of Louis XIII, added to her hair-dress- 
ing a row of ringlets over her forehead, a style which 
was also affected by Madame de Sevigne, the well 
known letter writer. We might thus go on calling 
attention to all these different modes of hair-dressing 
adopted under different reigns which depended largely 
on the whims and caprices of those whose hair was 
dressed by the ones who were really tonsorial artists. 
As we progress down the corridors of time we note the 
great changes which have been wrought in hair-dress- 
ing which are so great as to be worthy of being made 
a separate study which no doubt would be of the 
highest interest to our women readers. As we progress 
in time, we see some very radical changes in woman's 
hair-dressing. The chignon gradually gave way to the 
water-fall in which the hair was confined in a net 
Page Sixty 




Fig. 26. 
Madame de Pompadour. 




Fig. 27. 
Princess Palatinate. 




Fig. 28. 
Marie ' Antoinette. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

and which, to the present generation, is merely a piece 
of ancient history. Let us look at the portraits of 
our grandmothers and we will see this style in all 
its glory. We remember the time when this was the 
height of fashion and the stores made ado about the 
latest styles of hair nets. They were anything but 
invisible, which today is the popular device for holding 
rebellious hair in proper position and will, in time, 
give way to some other fashion. But we cannot de- 
vote too much time to the fashions of other days, but 
must, perforce, speak of those which now prevail. It 
would certainly require a work of encyclopedic dimen- 
sions, to give all of this, and we will limit ourselves 
to dealing with a few which are today almost in our 
midst or at least are within easy reach of those who 
desire to make a study of this subject. However, 
it may not be uninteresting to call attention to and 
describe some of the modern hair-dressing among the 
Swedes, Italians, Spanish, Chinese and Japanese, not 
omitting the natives of South and Central Africa, all 
of whom have interesting and, at times, elegant hair- 
dressings. These are all very solicitous of producing 
a good impression with their hair, and spend quite 
some time in bringing it to a stage where it will exert 
this effect. Let us begin with our blonde beauties of 
the North. But, before taking up the women of 
foreign lands it may be better to take a general view 
of those who are about and around us. Thus, now- 
adays we are confronted with frizzes, plainly dressed 
hair, the Sappho knot, the much-curled hair, the long 
curls, the bangs, the bobbed hair, and combinations 
of these. The bobbed hair, with a full bang, and other 
varieties confront us on every side. We cannot say 
that they are beautiful, and truth compels us to assert 
that the majority are far from being becoming and, 
in fact, are actually hideous. So that, acting as a 
looker-on in Venice, we are not attracted by any 
beautiful styles or fascinating combinations. 
Page Sixty-One 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

A search throughout the world for typical head- 
dressing reveals to us quite a sameness with very little 
variations. However, we find that there are some 
things in the hair-dressing of the Italians, Spanish, 
Norwegians, as well as of the Chinese and Japan- 
ese, that are not common. For instance, an Italian 
woman has a head cloth which is spread over an 
oblong piece of pasteboard and this is allowed to pro- 
ject in front beyond her head. The cloth is then per- 
mitted to float back over her head and the hair is 
just simply parted in the middle. Those who en- 
deavor to be slightly coquettish, will have small curls 
on each side, and thus form a pleasing picture of the 
head. The older women are content, with simply a 
cloth folded over the forehead and thrown back, with- 
out any effort to make them look more pleasant or 
better looking. The contadinas care little for looks, 
as their chief function is to work the fields, and try 
to make them as productive as possible for the hus- 
band who treats his wife like a laborer. 

The Spanish woman is naturally more careful of 
her appearance and of her hair-dressing, and she makes 
it a point to present a good appearance and, in fact, 
to look well and even handsome. She is naturally 
graceful, whereas the Italian woman depends upon 
beauty of features. Her attention is small in the mat- 
ter of dressing her hair, and yet she has the art of 
producing an impression which is both pleasing and 
lasting. This is the chief reason why artists who 
go to Italy to study and to paint scenery, and study 
the living model, have always brought back such fine 
paintings of Italian girls and women. It is no wonder 
that the great Italian artists were able to paint their 
masterpieces. They found their models everywhere, 
and each one was better looking than the last and 
more worthy of being painted. It is the result of 
this selection which has been the production of the 
great paintings by the Italian masters of the art, and 
Page Sixty-Two 




Fig. 29. 

Madame Prevost. 




Fig. 30. 
Long Curls of Empress Eugenie. 




W :^% .■■■ 



Fig. 31. 
Italian Head Dress in Women of Valencia. 




Fig. 32. 

Mary, Mother of Christ. 




5 /. 

Fig. 33. 
Bandeaux and English Curls. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



has founded a school which differed, in every respect, 
from the Dutch, Flemish and German as well as 
French art, not to mention Spanish schools. 

The Spanish woman is more careful to present a 
pleasing appearance, and she devotes more time to 
her head-dressing than her Italian sister. She is care- 
ful to have her hair dressed in a pleasing manner and 
one that will enhance her natural charms, as Velasquez 
knew how to depict in his paintings. She employs 
some factitious helps, like her high comb and her 
mantilla, both forceful aids to set off her beauty of 
face and generally handsome appearance. Give her 
a fan and she is completely dressed. Her hair is often 
in plaits, and those are brought onto the top of the 
head, so as to give the appearance of a casque. Other- 
wise, she parts her hair in the middle and wears ban- 
deaus which are tied to a chignon, on the vertex. 
No matter how she does it, she produces a striking 
effect and often presents a queenly appearance. Her 
great charm lies in her large lustrous black eyes, raven 
hair, scarlet lips, and the entire symmetry of the head- 
dressing with the oval face which is beneath it. Such 
an effect does a Castilian beauty produce, that it is 
never forgotten by the onlooker. It is such a sight 
that is called ravishing or entrancing and we can hardly 
wonder that the Spanish artists would paint no other 
woman but Spanish. Possibly, the best types are 
the Andalusians for beauty of features, gracefulness 
of movement and quickness of action. They have 
certainly impressed all those who met them with these 
traits and qualities and authors and poets have dwelt 
upon them. 

We now turn to the East to describe hair-dressing 
among the Chinese and the Japanese women. In 
China, where everything is reversed, we find the hair- 
dressing very simple. The art of making this elaborate 
has never been adopted, and the dressing of twenty 
centuries ago still prevails in the Celestial Empire. 

Page Sixty-Three 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

From the palace to the coolie's hovel the woman 
simply combs her hair backward and makes no at- 
tempt to have an elaborate method, such as would 
be ornate or pleasing. From the maid of fifteen to 
her ancestress of seventy the same style prevails. The 
only concession which they have made to the Western 
devils, is to use the central part, a style which does 
not seem to improve the looks by any means. 

A peculiarity in the style of hair-dressing is that 
the hair is brushed close to the scalp, giving the im- 
pression that it is glued and affording a good idea 
of the shape of the skull. In other words, the hair- 
dressing shows us that the Chinese women are micro- 
cephalic and the exhibition of more than an ordinary 
degree of intelligence on their part is regarded as ex- 
traordinary, and an intelligent woman is looked upon as 
one of the seven wonders of the world. As a proof 
of this we need only cite the Empress Ann, who made 
such a name for herself throughout the world, although 
it must be conceded that she fully demonstrated the 
capabilities of the Manchu dynasty and showed her- 
self a woman of powerful will and executive ability. 
She had the male's cruelty, and the female's venge- 
fulness. But we have not the space to make an 
analysis of this extraordinary woman. She was strong 
in her will and impulses, and a veritable statue of 
bronze against sentiment and pity. Her reign was 
characterized by advancement and progress. In fact, 
she was very much the cause of making China a first- 
class power among the nations of the world. She 
abolished ancient customs with a ruthless hand, and 
introduced the best and latest in the army and navy, 
and thus added to the glory and power of China. The 
junk gave way to the dreadnaught and the tom-toms 
to the mauser. In other words, she modernized China 
and continued her good work by causing the abolish- 
ment of the use of opium, not the least of her good 
deeds. For the women, she killed the barbarous custom 

Page Sixty-Pour 




PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

of making the feet small by giving the example of 
wearing large, comfortable shoes. The elaborate head- 
dressings were made of the simplest kind and thus 
she gained the good will and admiration of all of 
her subjects. In this manner, a mandate was trans- 
formed into a custom and today a Chinese woman 
walks properly instead of tottering about as was for- 
merly the custom. Foot deforming is no longer known 
but instead, good shoes, comfortable slippers and well- 
fitting foot-gear and clothing have come into vogue. 
The head-dressing, while not complicated or elaborate, 
is sufficiently becoming, and makes the Chinese 
woman's face at least interesting, if not absolutely 
handsome from our viewpoint. The Chinese women 
in this country are very few in number and are so 
closely guarded that it is very difficult to have an 
opportunity to speak to them. The city which had 
the largest number — San Francisco — only has the 
lowest order or coolie caste. The dressing of the 
hair of these women will show at a glance the char- 
acter of the one wearing it. It is as good an index 
as a sign would be and, perhaps, a little plainer to 
one who knows how to read character and instinct. 
When we take into consideration the fact that, at one 
time, a number of Chinese were driven off the main- 
land to an island, now known as Nippon or Japan, 
it is really remarkable to note the improvement that 
set in, an improvement in all respects which has made 
that small island a strong factor, in world politics, 
and a nation whose warlike qualities are marked both 
on land and sea. 

But to resume our subject. The Japanese are pro- 
gressive and quick to adopt improvements in all 
things and they have proved this in all lines of human 
endeavor. They are quickly appreciative as they have 
fully demonstrated in medicine, the art of war, in 
alertness and in many other respects. They are the 
soul of courtesy and entirely unreliable in business 

Page Sixty-Five 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

affairs. Their virtues are fully counter-balanced by 
their lack of truthfulness and rectitude. The Japan- 
ese character is one full of interest for the psychol- 
ogist. 

The hair-dressing of the Japanese women is a rather 
complicated affair and requires quite some time to 
accomplish. I have seen a blonde Japanese girl, who 
was called a half-breed, her father having been an 
Englishman and her mother a full-blooded Nipponese. 
This girl was probably the only good-looking one I 
met in Japan. She had not completely adopted the 
native method of hair-dressing. This consists of a 
number of bandeaus, which are crossed in numerous 
directions, with the hair puffed at the back and the 
front, presenting what may be termed large curls and 
in front the inevitable Kobi Knot which is almost the 
trade-mark of a Japanese toilet. In the back of the 
head, there is quite a large knot, this being necessitated 
by the fact that the Japanese pillow is of wood and the 
hair protects the scalp from injury, chafe or any other 
of those little disagreements which are avoided when 
eider-down pillows are employed. Of course, the 
Japanese pillow is rather hard, but those who use them 
easily adapt themselves to this order of things. When 
the hair is dressed, it presents a monumental appear- 
ance and the native's desire for the ornate shows itself 
in the various pins that are distributed throughout the 
hair-dressing, these pins terminating at their free ends 
in flags, fans, and other small as well as pleasing 
objects. The general appearance of this custom may 
be seen in Fig. 34, made from a photograph taken 
in life. 

Those who exhibit the best examples of this variety 
of hair-dressing are the tea-girls, in the various tea- 
houses, not to mention the geishas who specialize in 
elaborate hair-dressing. It is really worth one's while 
to study these, and follow the intricate mazes of an 
elaborate hair-dressing, as well as to follow the various 

Page Sixty-Six ♦ 




Fig. 34. 
Japanese Hair Dressed. 




Fig. 35. 
Japanese Girls — Hair Dressed. 




Fig. 36. 

Japanese Girl — Hair Not Dressed. 










Fig. 37. 
Hair Dressing of a Chinese Lady. 



PROPER CARE OF THE t HAIR AND SCALP 

stages in their elaboration. The general effect, on the 
whole, is good, and the appearance of the one so 
equipped is an excellent one. We have met Cau- 
casians who were never-ending in their praises, and 
deplored the fact that the European girls did not adopt 
this hair-dressing. It may become the custom in West- 
ern countries, but there is a long interval before such 
a much desired change will come to its fruition. The 
men are certainly willing, but the better halves of the 
community are opposed to these heathenish customs 
and fashions, and perhaps they are right in their views. 

We now leave the Mongolian to turn our attention 
to the African. Our readers may not know and not 
even suspect that there are certain tribes of South East 
and West Africa, who have their own peculiar customs 
in regard to hair-dressing. To begin with, they have 
much trouble in combing their wool, and overcoming 
this difficulty is attended by much pain and many 
bitter tears. Our civilized negroes, in the Northern 
States, are very coquettish and spend much time to 
straighten out their wool, puff it, and imitate the 
whites, as best they may, to have a hair-dressing in 
imitation of the fair daughters of Eve. 

A native hair-dressing of a woman of Dahomey is 
shown in Fig. 38. A variation of this is to have 
the wool projecting on each side of the head instead 
of having it on top as shown in the picture. As it 
takes much time and trouble to achieve the building 
of such a structure, the pride in its successful accom- 
plishment is naturally great, and this is greater ac- 
cording to the amount of trouble that it has entailed. 
We cannot really see the beauty in this head-dress 
and look upon it more in the light of a curiosity than 
as a work of art. As a study in native manners and 
customs, it offers a certain amount of interest, and as 
a diversion from the hair-dressing of the Caucasian, 
it certainly gives us another idea of the trouble and 
labor which will be devoted to a work whose final 

Page Sixty-Seven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

object is to appear pleasing to the other sex.. But this 
is rather a question for the anthropologist to handle. 
It has been given to show the diversity in hair-dressing 
among different nations and peoples and also of the 
effects produced by these various hair-dressings from 
those practiced by the most enlightened, to the vogue 
among savages and barbarians. The subject is one 
that is really inexhaustible, but what has been given 
is certainly sufficient for this book. 



Page Sixty-Eight 




Fig. 38. 
Hair Dressing of a Dahomey an 'Woman. 



CHAPTER X. 



HAIR RESTORERS. 

Hair restorers are solutions which are reputed to 
prevent falling out of the hair and to act as mediums 
to promote the growth of hair. There are many on 
the market and the manner in which they are com- 
pounded is calculated to make them pleasing to the 
eye and to the smell and more or less refreshing to 
the scalp of the one using them. It would be out 
of good taste to mention these toilet preparations and 
it would perhaps be more profitable to give a formula 
for one which acts as a general mild stimulant, a 
detergent and as a promoter of the growth of the hair. 
The formula is as follows: 

Resorcin (resublimed) 8 grains. 

Alcohol (80%) ethylic spirits one ounce. 

Compound tincture of cinchona .... three ounces. 

Bay rum two ounces. 

Carmine five grains. 

Mix and shake well. 

This lotion should be used every time that the scalp 
is massaged or the hair cut. It will be found to be 
pleasant, of a mildly stimulating character and cooling 
to the scalp. It is to be rendered more pleasant 
by adding some perfume such as extract of verbena, 
geranium or whichever odor is liked best by the user. 
Such little additions add a great deal to the popularity 
of a hair-dressing. A pleasing odor is that which is 
furnished by cud-bear and makes it more liked by 
the one who is using it. There is no doubt that there 
exist certain Oriental perfumes that are simply in- 
describable and lend an aroma and a charm which 

Page Sixty-Nine 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

are all their own. A work on perfumes will indicate 
these and serve as a guide. 

The manner of using these preparations consists in 
gently rubbing them into the scalp and adding to this 
a massage which will aid in stimulating the hair roots 
and bulbs and thus promote a growth of the hair, 
besides contributing to an increase in the circulation 
of this particular region of the skin. This alone has 
a tonic effect whose value cannot be over-estimated and 
whose after-effects are always of the most satisfactory 
kind. As a pleasant as well as efficacious hair re- 
storer it has no superior and the mechanical adjunct, 
in the shape of a massage, makes it all the more effi- 
cient and agreeable to its recipient. The formula 
which has been given is as practicable and as hand- 
some in appearance as any of the most popular "hair 
tonics," so-called by barbers and hair-dressers. After 
all, it is no difficult matter to construct a formula on 
the spur of the moment when the necessary qualities and 
demands are stated. Any competent dermatologist 
should be ready at any time to construct such a for- 
mula that would be both satisfactory and pleasant. 

As we progress along in the course of this book 
there will be given other formulas of an equal value 
and as cheap to make. 



Page Seventy 



CHAPTER XI. 



SUPERFLUOUS HAIRS. 

Superfluous hairs, hypertrichosis, or hairiness, is a 
condition which is very interesting and withal annoy- 
ing to those afflicted by this condition. To begin with, 
we have the condition which is generalized over the 
whole body and other forms in which it is only en- 
countered over small areas of limited extent. All of 
these require special mention as they need more or less 
special care and attention. As we descend the ladder 
of evolution, each rung that we pass brings us that 
much nearer to the hairy animal. Hairy men are 
of ancient date, if we are to believe the ancient authors. 
Thus we are informed by the Bible that Esau was 
hairy, and his father who was blind was deceived 
when his brother put on the pelt of an animal and 
presented himself as Esau and in that manner de- 
prived his brother of his lawful birthright. So that 
the first record of a hairy man is connected with a 
fraudulent transaction. That generalized hairiness is 
an indication of a strong, robust constitution, is a 
mistaken idea. For hairy men are notoriously prone 
to acquire tuberculosis and fall victims to it. A little 
patient observation will confirm this. All we need to 
do is to follow the medical history of such an in- 
dividual and we will find him succumb to the great 
white plague. If the observation is carried on to 
that of physically strong men, it will be found 
they have firm white skins and no overgrowth of 
the hairy system. It is the observation of such ex- 
amples that overturns the false notions which have 
been handed to us. An overgrowth of hair, where 
it is normally implanted, is known as orthotopic, 
whereas, an overgrowth of or presence of hair where 

Page Seventy-One 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

it does not naturally grow is denominated as hetero- 
topic. Pliny, the younger, has mentioned the homines 
pilosi, but, contrary to his usual custom, he has not 
dwelt upon them or devoted any considerable space to 
the subject. 

Hairy men are by no means rare, and examples 
are seen here and there. We present an illustration 
of a homo pilosus and will show some more and 
stranger examples of the large development of hair. 
There occur cases in which the development of 
normal hair becomes quite great and in Fig. 40 
is shown the head of hair of Naomi Sutherland, which 
at that time had reached a length of seven feet. Such 
great development of the hair of the head is anything 
but extraordinary. The homo pilosus or hairy man 
of Pliny is met with every day and it is quite a com- 
mon thing to see men who have a remarkable develop- 
ment of the hairy system. Their arms are as hairy 
as those of an ape, and their appearance is anything 
but esthetic or comely, in this hirsute condition. These 
are the men whose wives call bears, as much in a 
spirit of admiration as of dislike. But, it must not 
be supposed that this hairy condition is limited to 
men, for it is also observed in women and girls. 
School-girls of fifteen or sixteen are often seen whose 
arms are quite hairy and a source of much worry 
and discomfort to them. 

This marked growth of hair is indicative of .1 
nervous system that is easily influenced, and the char- 
acter of those so gifted with a marked growth of hair 
on the limbs is one that is rather weak and vacillating 
and not marked by firmness. All males and females 
who have a large growth of hair on the body or limbs 
are not necessarily physically strong but are rather 
weak and susceptible to tuberculosis. This is more 
especially true of those whose hair is black. This is 
far from being a theory, for it is the result of ob- 
servation, and many are those who have paid the 

Page Seventy-Two 




Fig. 39. 

Hairy Man (Homo Pilosus), 




Fig. 40. 
Naomi Sutherland — Long-haired Woman. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

penalty of hairiness in a tribute that was death. The 
growth of hair on the body is often quite large, more 
especially in men, who seem to possess a facility for 
the development of hair, a feature that is not possessed 
by women. Men whose occupation necessitates the 
exposure of the chest to the air more easily develop 
hair in this locality, as witness the examples seen in 
sailors and similar hardy individuals, which does not 
mean to say that the exposure of the chest brought 
about by the wearing of low necked gowns by women 
induces an abundant growth of hair upon the chest. 
Of course, we must bear in mind that a low-necked 
gown is not worn exposed to the rude blasts of winter 
and those other climatic influences which are held to 
promote a growth of the capillary system. The ques- 
tion which immediately presents itself is, why fisher- 
women whose faces are exposed as much as their 
brothers' or husbands' do not also have beards de- 
velop upon their faces as they do upon those of their 
male relatives. It is not unusual to see women who 
have passed the climacteric, with well developed 
moustaches and even beards. It may be that this 
revolution of the entire physical organism in a woman 
is a potent factor in the development of the hairy 
system. It is no extraordinary thing to observe here 
and there an exception to the ordinary rule or an 
aberration from what is considered the normal. It 
is not a common thing to see a bearded woman, for 
instance, and the writer has had the opportunity or 
seeing such but twice. He satisfied himself that they 
were women and the second one was married and had 
two fine, healthy children, one of whose chief amuse- 
ments was to toy with her long brown beard. Such 
anomalies are far from common and yet it is quite 
ordinary to see a woman with a fairly developed 
moustache of which a young man could well feel a 
pride in possessing. It is a rather common thing to 
observe girls with quite a good indication of hair 
Page Seventy-Three 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

on the upper lip and instead of being proud of such 
an ornament, they make an effort to get rid of it. 
Another class are blessed with a fair growth of side 
whiskers. They are the ones who constitute the bane 
of the lives of dermatologists, in their demands to have 
the hair permanently destroyed. But these are merely 
slight disfigurements in comparison with that of "Jo 
Jo," the dog-faced boy, and the Russian who has 
been exhibited everywhere to the astonished audiences 
of various circuses and museums of freaks and other 
examples of the aberrations of nature. We do not 
have opportunities of seeing as many of these freaks 
as we did some forty years ago. There is no doubt 
that the fashion will soon show itself once more as 
it usually does every new generation. 

These have all been examples of orthotopic his- 
suties, and it may be in order now to mention examples 
of heterotopic growths of hair. Thus, the writer has 
seen in a man a long growth of hair in the lumbar 
region, and has also noted a marked growth of white 
hair on the sclera of a man, which, in reality, was a 
reversion in type, as it is by far no extraordinary thing 
to see these growths of white hair from the sclera 
of a calf. Anyone who makes his residence on a 
farm where cattle are bred will have an occasion to 
observe this curious phenomenon. The condition is 
certainly a curious one, more especially as it consti- 
tutes one of the varieties of hirsuties which we may 
have occasion to observe. It must not be forgotten 
that all these conditions are not confined to the human 
species but aberrations and anomalies also occur in 
the different varieties of animals. And it is an estab- 
lished truth that the anomalies observed in animals 
find their analogies in human beings. It is for this 
reason that a true student of the curious in the human 
is attracted by all animal and plant life more especiall}' 
in the study of tumors and new growths. For these 
reasons an extended study of nature in general gives 

Page Seventy-Four 



**-!',. ".- ;.:;'. . 



Fig. 41. 

Jo-Jo, the Dog-faced Boy. 




Fig. 42. 
Hairy Moles. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

us a broader idea of the functions and deviations from 
the normal in particular cases. 

There are some particular forms of hypertrichosis 
which have not been mentioned above and these con- 
cern the vibrissae (short hairs) of the nostrils and of 
the ears. A peculiarity of these is that with advancing 
years they become longer and stiffer and instead of 
filling their normal physiological functions they inter- 
fere with them. It is for this reason that plucking 
out these hairs is a bad practice and one which leads 
to much inconvenience and bother. For the vibrissae 
are intended to arrest and catch all foreign matter 
which enter the cavities that these hairs line, and in 
that manner constitute guards to and protectors of these 
cavities. By pulling out these hairs the protectors of 
the cavities are removed and their protection lost. It 
is such thoughtless acts which bring on troubles of 
the nostrils and of the external ears which are apt 
to become chronic and difficult to cure. It is always 
best to inquire of some competent authority whether 
the practice is permissible in a given case. Another 
phase of hypertrichosis is the growth of long hairs 
out of moles upon the faces of middle-aged or elderly 
females. These also should not be jerked out but 
cut close to the skin. A better appearance is thus 
secured and no dangerous results observed, as is but 
too often the case when these stiff strong hairs are 
forcibly pulled out, not to mention the total absence 
of pain when the hairs are cut. From a cosmetic point 
of view the result is also much better and the peace 
and comfort are certainly preferable to the annoyance 
and pain which are certain to follow a forcible ex- 
traction of the hair. Men pay little or no attention to 
such small things but they constitute a real worry and 
annoyance to women. A number of generalized cases 
of hypertrichosis have been observed in the so-called 
wild men and wild women who had fled to the woods 
and lived there in a condition of perfect nudity. It 

Page Seventy-Five 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

is not alone in this country but in Europe that these 
cases have occurred, and, from the newspaper ac' 
counts which sporadically appear, there still seem to 
be some of these unfortunates at large in the woods. 
The condition of universal hairiness seems to be fos- 
tered by the exposure of the skin and the lack of 
care given to it. These individuals exist like wild 
beasts and become hairy and rough like the examples 
which they are following. Such unfortunate ex- 
amples are no longer human, they have fallen to 
the level of the brute, and, in some, it has been ob- 
served that there is quite a marked growth of hair 
on the forehead. The presence of hypertrichosis in 
an individual is certainly not an indication of evolution 
in the right direction. 



Page Seventy-Six 



CHAPTER XII. 



THE BEARD. 

After the consideration of hypertrichosis, it may not 
be out of order to devote a few pages to the beard. 
This appendage of the male, which was supposed to be 
a true badge of manhood, has been known for all 
ages and in all countries. The ancient writers have 
much to say of this hirsute adornment of the male 
and the representations of it have been very numerous. 
The old Rabbinical writers have gone so far as to 
represent the deity as an old man with a white beard 
and a serious look upon his features, making him the 
very ideal, in looks, of an ancient patriarch. But it 
is the purely Semitic idea which, in itself, is a very 
ancient one and dates far back to the Pharaonic 
period and, on that account, is worthy of due regard 
and respect. For the present moment, we will ex- 
amine the records engraved on stone of the Assyrians 
and Babylonians, and then come down to the Egypt- 
ians, and thus continue our journey to the present day. 

The Assyrian kings, if we are to judge by the 
sculptures which have been unearthed, wore long beards 
which were curly as may be seen from a tablet of 
Assur-ba-ni-pal, as it appears in cuneiform characters, 
and which is translated as Sardanapalus. That he 
was a most powerful ruler as well as a rich one is 
evident from the inscriptions which have been left 
behind, which speak of his strength and riches. If 
we are to believe the legends which are thus handed 
down to us, there would seem to be no limit to his 
power, and his face in the sculptured rocks betrays 
a strong will and determination, such as was becom- 
ing to such a powerful potentate whose wealth was 
beyond the dreams of avarice. Another well known 

Page Seventy-Seven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

personage who came after Sardanapaluss, who was 
a strong character, is Moses, and he also wore a 
long beard, but he only followed the fashion of Abra- 
ham, who was the Nestor of all of them. We must 
regard him as the typical patriarch, who instituted the 
patriarchal role among the Jews, and he was char- 
acterized by a long, white, flowing beard. Moses, who 
presented the tables of the law, or the ten command- 
ments, was also known to wear a long beard. It is not 
strange that he did so, for at that time all the kings of 
Egypt were distinguished in that manner, as it was sup- 
posed that a long beard added to the dignity of a man 
and commanded the respect of all those with whom he 
came in contact. Moses, as the leader of the Jews 
out of the bondage of the Egyptians, was a true one 
and made his influence felt more than any other. He 
led the Jews to the land of Canaan, which was re- 
puted to run with milk and honey, and there he settled 
with his tribes. It was not long until they established 
themselves as owners and rulers of the promised land. 
It was this feat of his that fixed his reputation, more 
firmly than ever, and placed the Judaic religion on 
a foundation that could not be shaken. 

So much venerated were the beards of Abraham 
and Solomon, that the wearing of the full beard be- 
came a custom which still persists to this day among 
the Jews who are orthodox. Those who are hetero- 
dox enjoy full liberty in this respect, as they do in 
regard to many other customs and manners, in which 
they have adopted the modes of the Gentiles. This 
style of wearing the beard was also adopted by Ma- 
homet, the great founder of Mahometism, whose beard 
was regarded as sacred, and one hair of which is still 
preserved by the true believers of Islam. It is a sacred 
object, and is revered and worshipped by the true 
followers of Mahomet. It is the object of as much 
devotion as the relic of a Christian saint. 

Page Seventy-Eight 




Fig. 43. 

Beard of Jupiter. 



F£J<Ifi££{] 




Fig. 44. 

Beard of Neptune. 




Fig. 45. 
Apollo Shaven. 




Fig. 46. 

Beard of Mercury. 




Fig. 47. 

Assyrian King, Curled Beard. 




Fig. 48. 
Hannibal. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



We have hurriedly mentioned Mahomet, but his 
beard is not as great an object of devotion as was 
that of Christ, the founder of the Christian religion. 
Christ had a full beard which naturally parted in the 
middle and was handsome withal. He was still a 
young man when he was crucified, but he had arrived 
at the full age of manhood. Whether Gentile or Jew, 
he made the greatest change in religion that was ever 
accomplished by any one man. He made more fol- 
lowers, who still remain in all their vigor and strength, 
than has any other with the possible exception of 
Mahomet. After the death of this latter, we find a 
large, gigantic figure of a man, who made the entire 
world tremble, who had a long full beard and who, 
whilst the terror of all, accomplished more good than 
any of his contemporaries. The man who dominated 
all was the great ruler, warrior, and philanthropist, 
Charlemagne. Himself unable to read or write, he 
was a most generous patron of schools and was not 
slow to reward all clerks, on account of their great 
accomplishments of reading and writing. He died just 
before one of the greatest wars after that of the 
Romans and Carthaginians. It was not long after 
his death that the Crusades began, and it is now that 
we may observe how the beard was worn. The 
Musselmen, who were determined to keep the Holy 
Land, fought with all their strength and were dis- 
tinguished from their Christian opponents by wearing 
their beards full, whereas the Crusaders wore a 
moustache and goatee which together formed the cross, 
for which they were battling. This little fact is one 
which has escaped the notice of many of our Christians, 
who are rather inclined to look upon this manner of 
wearing the beard as a fad more than a reminiscence 
of past ancient times, that witnessed some of the 
bloodiest wars ever waged in the world. It was thought 
that so much carnage would never be known again; 
Page Seventy-Nine 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

but in vain, for we are now witnessing a war that 
for carnage and destruction of human life had never 
been seen before, and this in the full light of the 
enlightenment of the twentieth century. But this is 
wandering from our subject. The various forms of 
beards which have been adopted at different periods 
of the world's history will be noted as we deal with 
the subject. Now we will take a step backward in 
history and find that Philip of Macedonia wore a 
beard, and his son, Alexander the Great, was smooth 
faced and while still a boy had conquered the world 
and sighed for more worlds to conquer. 

The students of history will note that the greatest 
generals of antiquity were smooth-faced and showed 
no signs of a beard, or of a hirsute adornment to the 
face. In testimony of this we need only mention 
Pericles, Julius Caesar, Augustus Caesar and a num- 
ber of others who were successful in their several 
wars, and added much to the territory and glory of 
their respective countries. When Rome was invaded 
by Attila and his Huns they were all bearded, but 
succeeded in destroying the city of Rome and left 
behind nothing but the ruins of the Eternal City. That 
was the work of the bearded man. The Greeks and 
Romans named them barbarians, and they had good 
cause to do so, which does not mean to say that the 
men who are smooth-faced are better soldiers and 
generals than those who wear full beards, for history 
could prove the opposite. 

Going back to ecclesiastical history, we find that the 
priests of the Roman Catholic Church at first wore 
beards and many popes were bearded. The Greek 
Catholic Church never discontinued the manners and 
customs of the very early days, and to this day they all 
wear full beards, marry, and raise families. They 
still claim a straight line of descent from the twelve 
apostles, and aver that theirs is the true Catholic 
Church. The priests of this branch may be seen in 

Page Eighty 




Fig. 49. 
Charlemagne. 





Fig. 50. 
Beard Comb of Sixteenth Century. 




Fig. 51. 

Richelieu. 




Fig.. 52. 
Tattooed Lip of Aino Girl. 




Fig. 53. 

General Joffre. 




Fig. 54. 
Wilhelm II. 



PROPER CARE' OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



every large city of the civilized world, and they con- 
tinue the work which was inaugurated by the twelve 
apostles, as they spread over the entire world to an- 
nounce that Christ had come and died to save man- 
kind from the effects of sin and show everyone the true 
road to salvation. They are orthodox Christians of 
the old school. The sacerdotal habiliments of Greek 
priests continue to remain the same and look quite 
picturesque. The sacred functions of him who wears 
them is known at once. He is also very much in- 
clined to be human and to act like a human being. 

As we come to more modern times, and we find that 
in the time that Louis XIV reigned, or thereabouts, 
the streets of large cities were infested by bravos, for 
the most part Italians and Spaniards, and they in- 
variably wore heavy moustaches and small goatees. 
Such also was then the custom of the French mus- 
keteers who served the King, the Queen, or the Car- 
dinal. They were all swordsmen, expert fencers and 
always on the lookout for an opportunity to fight some 
nobleman or a foe worthy of the steel of the one 
who sought the quarrel. All the bridges in the large 
cities were infested by cut-throats and thieves, and 
it behooved each one to wear his trusty Toledo blade 
at his left side. These were the times when the older, 
law-abiding citizens remained at home, and the younger 
element who went abroad prospecting found more quar- 
rels and duels than they did pennies. In all these 
cases the principals, whether noblemen or bandits, in- 
variably wore moustaches or both these and goatees. 
A beard would have condemned them to a home for 
the old and decrepit men. 

When we consider the pictures of the kings and 
courtiers of the courts of Europe in the sixteenth and 
seventeenth centuries, we find that full beards are con- 
spicuous by their absence. The principal personages 
either had smooth faces or limited their beard to a 
Page Eighty-One 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

moustache and goatee. All remember well that Car- 
dinal Richelieu was thus adorned, so far as any beard 
was concerned. In fact, he was one of the few prel- 
ates who was such in name only, and who had prac- 
tically thrown his frock over the wind-mills, although 
he retained his political power until his death. Father 
Joseph, his gray eminence, was smooth shaven and 
was really the power behind the throne. Thus, we 
find that the growth of hair on the face is not the 
sign that the individual's intellectual powers are of a 
corresponding strength, as those of his hair-growing 
qualities. One fact has always been coincident, at 
almost all times and in all ages, and that is that fisher- 
men, sailors, pirates and other sea-faring men have 
had a full growth of whiskers. This is probably due 
to the necessity felt to protect the face and neck against 
the winter and the sea-water, which comes in contact 
with those parts. The old sea-wolves needed that pro- 
tection so as not to contract colds and other diseases 
that would interfere with their duties or usefulness in 
their vocation. We also find that the men of the 
North wear beards to protect the face and neck against 
the cold winds which prevail in those zones. Those 
who inhabit the tropics, like the Malays, are willing 
to limit their beard to a moustache or shave the face 
clean. Ancient busts have revealed much to us on the 
subject of the beard. Thus the ancient sculptors 
represented Jupiter with a full beard and a fine head 
of hair and both as smooth as if their owner had 
stepped out of a modern barber's chair. A good idea 
of the appearance presented may be gained from Fig. 
43. On the other hand, Neptune, who governed 
the seas, whilst possessed of a full beard and a full 
head of hair, was not then in as good-looking a con- 
dition as his brother Jupiter. His hair and beard pre- 
sent a more or less tousled up appearance as might 
be expected of one continually exposed to the winds 
and storms of the seas. In the appended figure we 

Page Eighty-Two 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



have a good representation of this condition and there 
is no doubt whatever that the artist was fully aware 
of the conditions he was to represent. Apollo, the god 
of poetry, has usually been represented to us as a 
young man of regular features with a beardless face. 
An old bust of this popular deity represents him as a 
young adult with a beard surrounding his neck and 
looking very much like a collar. This may be a sur- 
prise, perhaps, to those of our readers who hardly 
expected the god of poetry to be anything but one 
of youthful appearance and demeanor on account of his 
constant company of the nine muses who are all shown 
to be as comely young girls. 

However, after this little digression we will resume 
our subject of the beard and call attention to some 
of the more commonly known styles that have been 
seen in past ages and are still worn by men of today. 
Thus we have the well known beard of Henry IV., 
King of France, and of Navarre, which was cut so 
as to end in a more or less marked point. He was 
the most gallant man of his time and was looked upon 
most favorably by the ladies who found in him all the 
qualities and virtues of a perfect man. His beard 
was one that soon had many imitators and it was of 
such shape that it enhanced the looks and appearance 
of all those who adopted it. In fact, it established a 
fashion which still exists today after some few cen- 
turies of its original adoption. The king who always 
appeared thus did not abandon this style, as it had 
acquired his name and thus helped to perpetuate his 
memory and his renown. We have found that this 
cut of the beard is still popular at this day not with 
kings particularly, but with the public in general. If 
care be taken to follow the great wars of all times, 
we soon are made acquainted with the faces of those 
who took leading parts in those conflicts, and it keeps 
us posted as to the kind and extent of the whiskers 
they wore. The more enlightened as well as intelli- 
Page Eighty-Three 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

gent generals do not wear a mass of beard, designed 
to hide the face or perhaps terrorize the enemy. 
Whiskers are known for what they are, and the modern 
soldier has more respect for shrapnel than for beard. 
The size of a shell is a much stronger argument than 
the length of a beard. One of the pecularities of 
modern warfare which has been universally observed 
is that the bushy-whiskered general is more of a remi- 
niscence than an actuality. When we go back into 
history, generals with full beards were quite the or- 
dinary thing, but nowadays it is quite exceptional. 
The Germans are those who have retained this custom 
the longest of any and they are still persisting in re- 
taining the habit. We remember distinctly that, during 
the Franco-Prussian War, King William had a pretty 
full beard and his son, the crown prince Frederick 
William, "Unser Fritz," also affected a full beard. 
The Chancellor of the Empire, Bismarck, merely wore 
a moustache and a bald head. We must not forget 
that he was a very astute diplomat, and succeeded 
in building up the United Germany, which had al- 
ways been his ambition. He claimed that the beard of 
Barbarossa had disappeared, thus ending his reign. 
As the legend had it, Barbarossa, or red beard, was 
confined in a cave and forced to sit at a large, round 
table. During this imprisonment his beard grew in 
length and his liberation would not take place until 
his beard had grown thirty times around the table, 
making a total length of about three hundred feet. 
This was finally accomplished in 1871, and the rule 
of this ancient monarch was to be re-established. Be 
this as it may, the legend for us has only this value, 
that it speaks of a beard of the length of three hundred 
feet. We have seen a beard of over eight feet in 
length, and it was considered very much out of the 
ordinary and there are records extant of much longer 
ones. At present we are concerned with the manner 
of beard worn by prominent men. 

Page Eighty-Four 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

In the great world war now raging in Europe we 
find that the principal leaders wear nothing but a 
moustache. William II., the Emperor of Germany, 
has a moustache which is so trained that its two free 
ends point heavenward. The General in Chief of the 
Allies, Joffre, also wears only a moustache, but it is 
permitted to grow in a natural way, and no attempt 
is made to give it a fierce look. In fact, all the 
traits and habits of this general are quite simple and 
natural, and the only thing that is out of the com- 
mon is the great genius for war that he possesses. In 
Germany every little officer trains what moustache he 
possesses to point upwards. In France the heavy 
moustaches, which are so prevalent, are worn au natu- 
ral, and, throughout Europe, the style of beard, for 
all military men, is a moustache. One advantage 
which it possesses is that it is not so heavy to carry, 
although the corps of sappers and miners is still char- 
acterized by a long beard. One peculiar style of 
wearing the moustache is that affected by Hungarian 
cavalry. The pommel of the saddle of each is a 
pomade pot containing the celebrated Hungarian pom- 
ade. As all the saddles are padded with black sheep's 
wool, the cavalryman tears out a hair from his saddle, 
puts it with his moustache and by the aid of the pomade 
finally has a pair of long, pointed, black moustaches 
which have a fierce look, like those Peter the Great, 
of Russia, had. Thus is there ever a return to the 
old customs and fashions and the last cry of fashion 
is after all merely a return to and a resumption of the 
old ones, or a resurrection of the ancient. 

Another class who affect very long moustaches are 
the Chinese of Manchuria. Some have this adornment 
one foot or even as much as eighteen inches long, and 
they seem to take a great pride in these ornamental 
helps to their facial comeliness. We have never seen 
any that aroused any other feelings than those of 
curiosity. It may be that this is a sign of beauty, like 
black teeth or other adventitious helps which are con- 
Pag-e Eighty-Five 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

sidered ugly by those from the West. The ideals of 
the Orient are always very pronounced but do not 
agree with our views of the beautiful. 

One method of wearing the beard, which has ex- 
isted in this country for many years, and which still 
persists until this day, is to wear a full beard and 
have the upper lip shaved. We never could detect 
the beauty of such a method of wearing a beard, 
although we will confess that the removal of the 
soup-strainers, as moustaches are called, is an improve- 
ment and a relief to the onlookers. If there is any- 
thing painful it is to observe a man dip his moustache 
in every liquid he drinks and distribute samples upon 
his clothing and shirt, and upon his surroundings, 
wherever he goes. The full beard, when it is well 
groomed and kept well brushed^ and combed, may be 
a handsome sight, but it is repugnant to the majority, 
because it does not present that neat and natty appear- 
ance which characterizes the side-whiskers, a la Lord 
Dundreary. But the latter looks so insipid. We 
could go on multiplying styles of beards and the man- 
ner of wearing them and cultivating their growth, but 
do not quite regard the subject as closed without a 
reference to some that have not been noted. 

Napoleon III., when he became Emperor, adopted 
the moustache and chin whisker, the latter, on account 
of his rank, being called an imperial. He persisted 
in wearing his beard in this fashion up to the very 
moment of his death. His effigy, in this form, was 
struck on all the French coins dining his entire reign. 
In 1 848 a number of Germans formed a society whose 
object was to make a republic of Germany, and the 
manner they adopted as a sign of recognition, was 
for each one to w r ear a moustache and an imperial. 
We may still meet some of them in these later days, 
although they are few, and they are all proud to call 
themselves old '48ers. Thus, the beard came to play 
a part in politics as well as in social affairs. 

A few years ago, a number of the younger genera- 
Page Eighty-Six 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

tion revived a form of beard that soon became very 
popular. It was simply a revival of a style which 
had been introduced by a famous Dutch painter by 
the name of Van Dyke. This peculiar cut of the 
beard had a vogue for quite a number of years, and 
it is still popular with a number of the fashionables, 
who desire to create a good impression by the aid 
of this hair cut and dressing. It is certainly neat and 
fetching in appearance, and is sure to undergo a 
revival, because it has these qualities. We could go on 
with a mention and description of many other forms 
and styles of beards, to say nothing of the eccentricities 
which can be most often found in the Latin Quarter 
of Paris. Of course, these are prompted by fancy, 
and attempt to parody existing styles or exaggerate 
them so as to show their weakness or imbecility. The 
vanity of some men is inexhaustible, and they will fre- 
quently resort to the most inept methods to make an 
attempt to improve upon that which is not susceptible to 
such a change without making it perfectly hideous. 
Were we inclined to ridicule these efforts it would 
be time lost, not in a good cause, but in a useful 
effort to instil good taste, where the effort would be 
null and void. We certainly cannot make a silk purse 
out of a sow's ear, nor can we inject brains into a 
billiard ball. The erratic styles of beards are almost 
infinite in number, from the carefully dressed Dun- 
drearys of the ultra, to the shaggy growth under the 
chin of the weary roadside wanderer, who never cares 
to shave his face nor look clean. With such we will 
have naught to do, but will turn to the city dweller 
who has water ad libitum and uses it. The bath and 
the shave are almost unknown to the one who is like 
the lilies of the field, for he toils not neither does 
he spin, and Solomon in all his wisdom never dreamed 
of such a thing as a modern tramp. His whiskers 
are as he lets them grow, and are, on this account, 
more picturesque than clean. The only time that they 
are cleaned is when their owner is thrown into a river, 
Page Eighty-Seven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

and even then the cleansing is only superficial. This 
unfortunate class of some who have seen better days, 
and enjoyed good homes wherein comfort lay, if not 
affluence, are indeed deserving of our pity and of a 
well earned rest in some jail. We hope to see this 
total lack of decency replaced by something better. 
A style of beard with which we desire to close this 
chapter is the eccentric growth where the beard is per- 
mitted to grow its full length on one side and then 
closely cut on the other. Whilst this is not a style, 
it savors sufficiently of eccentricity to draw the atten- 
tion of the curious. It is nearly impossible to give 
any mere idea of the extremes to which such prac- 
tices may be pushed. The style of beard of Uncle 
Sam is still adhered to by a number of our old citi- 
zens, who wear rabbit skin stove pipe hats and carry 
out the entire appearance of our national representa- 
tive in all its details. Such are more unusual and 
strange than they are comic and eccentric and the tuft 
on the chin once seen is never forgotten, and its bearer 
is certainly an American citizen. 

While a well-kept beard is good to look upon, noth- 
ing is more disgusting than a soiled, unkempt beard 
growing from a dirty, unwashed face surmounted by 
a red nose and beady eyes. The chief reason for such 
a state of affairs is laziness and shiftlessness. The in- 
dividual presenting such an appearance certainly be- 
longs to the submerged ten thousand; he is a shame 
to himself and a horror to others. He has been un- 
fortunate and he is on the road to further ill luck 
of the same sort. He is no longer human, he is a 
mere fragment; one of the pieces of flotsam and jet- 
sam which are thrown upon the broad limitless shores 
of human life. He began with high aspirations and 
the poor fool was entangled in the whirlpool of vice, 
debauchery and was made a petty criminal with the 
high hopes of obtaining money by all means except 
honest ones, and without the necessity of working for 
whatever he obtained. 

Page Eig-hty-Eight 



CHAPTER XIII 



THE CARE OF THE BEARD. 

The foregoing is not a preachment but rather an 
introduction to the care of the beard. To begin with, 
it should be thoroughly washed and then dried be- 
tween hot towels. Then it should be combed care- 
fully and brushed equally as much. This will put the 
hair in a nice, smooth condition and the preliminary 
washing will make it clean and full of lustre and 
beautiful to gaze upon. Having arrived at this stage 
it will be next in order to render the hair glossy and, 
at the same time, to semi-marcel lize it in order that 
it may have that wavy look that so much enhances 
the appearance of a long beard. But whatever is 
done, it should never be of such a nature that it will 
render the hairs brittle or cause them to split, two 
conditions that are very apt to occur and spoil the 
hair for any further manipulation. 

The method of marcellizing the hair is by means 
of glass or lead rods, around which the hair is rolled 
and then pressed. As it is loosened, the waves of the 
hair will develop and show themselves. In this man- 
ner a fine effect is obtained. It is this close atten- 
tion to details which gives the same appearance to the 
beard that is noted in the hair of women. Much atten- 
tion is necessary and very little oil. For, whatever is 
rubbed in the hair, avoid vaseline, for it is a mineral 
product and cannot assimilate with animal tissue. It 
is better to use perfumed ox marrow. It is bad prac- 
tice to pomade the hair and is unnecessary if the skin 
has been properly stimulated to furnish its own fat 
for the lubrication of the hair, as is nature's method, 
and it is with great difficulty that we can improve on 
Nature. It is better to follow her and the result will 

Page Eighty-Nine 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

invariably be a good one. The savage who has fine 
hair uses no oils, pomades or such artificial helps or 
cosmetics, and his hair continues to be good and re- 
mains that way. The care of the beard depends very 
much upon the care of the skin that produces it. The 
same remedies should be employed as are used upon 
the scalp, stimulants, massage and all those other means 
which have been mentioned in connection with the 
scalp and the hair of the head. A further matter that 
should be attended to in the care of the beard is that 
whatever is done should be executed with due care 
and precaution; for, without these, the final outcome 
is very apt not to be a perfect success and, unless 
it be, the subject will be one who is dissatisfied and 
he will be very chary in his praise and recommenda- 
tion. Today the care of the beard seems to be but 
a small matter, although in former years it counted 
as an important function. Even the curling of the 
moustache requires particular care and attention, and 
is insisted upon by those who desire to present a more 
than pleasing appearance. There are apparatuses made 
for this purpose, and he who desires a curly moustache 
must obtain one to accomplish the desired end. There 
is not alone this apparatus, but there exist small curl- 
ing irons in whose use one easily becomes an adept 
and this without accidentally burning the moustache. 
In addition to this, there is a necessity of cutting the 
points at which hair is knotted or is split and the neces- 
sary means in such cases must be adopted. So that, 
taken altogether, the proper care of the beard is not 
such a simple matter as it seems to be on a superficial 
view. A very complicated method was formerly em- 
ployed for dressing the beard, but this complication 
was for the most part a ceremony of placing perfumes 
and perfumed oils and pomades on the hair of the 
beard. 



Page Ninety 



CHAPTER XIV. 



WIGS. 



In considering the subject of false hair, we must 
confine ourselves to the fair sex, for they are the 
ones who use this factitious form more than any others. 
False hair has been very truthfully named, for it is 
false in almost every particular. To begin with, it 
is not the hair of the one wearing it, and ofttimes it is 
not hair at all, but a substitute. We find in some cases 
that jute is employed; in others, the hair of Chinese 
women, and in many others anything which may serve 
as a substitute. First of all we must consider what 
really constitutes false hair, as it is ordinarily called. 
False hair is usually employed to show a mass of hair 
in those cases in which it does not exist. The prin- 
cipal forms in which false hair occurs are curls, frizzes 
and switches. The curls are fastened with hair pins, 
or some of the other devices employed for tying up 
and fastening hair. The general effect is not bad 
when the curls are well attached, but it is ludicrous 
when a brisk wind blows them off. The method of 
using these artificial aids should be well studied, so as 
to avoid any possible mortification resulting from acci- 
dents. Another variety of false hair is the false front 
which occasionally presents ludicrous phases to the ob- 
server. It is a piece that is fastened on the front part 
of the head and is often made of dark hair and sold 
at a cheap price. It is much affected by red-headed 
women, who do not seem to see or appreciate the dis- 
crepancy in color and are induced to buy it on account 
of its cheapness. As long as they have the hair, 
what is the small thing of color, so long as there is the 
material. There may be some hope that the black 
will eventually become rusty in color, and thus harmo- 

Page Ninety-One 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

nize with the growth of red hair and perhaps deceive 
the on-lookers. It is certainly a very commendable 
action to make an effort to look more comely, but it 
is sometimes energy aimed in the wrong direction. 

Another phase of the false hair-dressing habit is to 
have a chignon made of false hair and placed upon 
the head like a bun. It is not seldom that a large 
chignon that is worn by an old lady who is bald and 
only has a few white hairs left on her head. How- 
ever, she is pleased with the glory of former days, 
or a discarded piece of false hair belonging to a married 
daughter. But the piece de resistance in false hair 
is the switch. This is an addition to be incorporated 
with the natural, and adds volume to it. Switches 
are often bought by those who have but a sparse 
growth of hair, but the wiser ones who don't buy 
switches carefully keep their combings to have them 
made into switches. Women whose hair is becoming 
gray find this method advantageous, for the reason that 
gray hair is expensive, and does not match as well 
with the natural hair when bought as when furnished. 
There will be no mention made here of the various 
uses to which a switch may be turned. The neces- 
sities of different cases, and the versatility of the one 
using this addition, will easily solve these problems. 

We now arrive at the subject of false frizzes. They 
are some of the most fascinating in the line of false 
hair, because it is imagined that they give a girlish 
look to the wearer, although this can hardly be held 
to be the case when she is an old maid of fifty-five 
or sixty. She will persist in calling herself a girl 
and will insist on feeling giddy. Still we cannot have 
the heart to repress these youthful desires and am- 
bitions. It is mournful and worthy of tears to wit- 
ness the sight of a great-grandmother sporting about in 
frizzes, more especially if she be a ballet dancer of 
the vintage of 1825. However, we have nothing to 
say if the wearer is satisfied and happy. But we do 

Page Ninety-Two 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

raise our voice in protest against an old staid grand- 
mother showing her white hair with an accompaniment 
of black frizzes and an interlude of baldness to give 
variety to the effect. 

The wig is an addition to the toilet which is sup- 
posed to lend dignity and severity to the face of him 
who wears it. It is possibly on this account that the 
courts of Europe adopted it as an adjunct to the 
judicial ermine; and this may account for the arrival 
of the wig, the peri-wig and perruque. Before taking 
these into consideration we will consider the ordinary 
wig such as we see it in every-day life. The origin 
of the wig is lost in the historical mists of antiquity. 
An attentive study of the ancient Greek and Roman 
theatre will reveal to us the fact that the actors wore 
wigs more especially when they assumed the roles of 
women. As women were then forbidden to appear on 
the theatre young men were expected to assume female 
roles, and they were compelled to wear wigs to as- 
sume more correctly the roles that were assigned to 
them. In this manner and in such a crude fashion 
were the audiences entertained in ancient days. The 
actors wore no wigs but the cost of those of the chorus 
of young girls and young men added no small amount 
to the total cost of the production of a piece. In fact, 
the wig as an accessory was often considered as an 
unnecessary adjunct. The masks were looked upon 
as more important and the mask of the tragedian was 
not to be omitted any more than the sock of the come- 
dian. The question of stature entered largely into the 
matter of acting and facial expression was confined to 
the staring face of the mask. This was, indeed, a 
mere farcical rendition of noble verses by powerful 
voices rather than a rendition of noble thoughts and 
sentiments. We certainly cannot find it upon our- 
selves to admire the antique stage which possessed none 
of the attractive features of the more modern. The 
evolution of the stage has been a slow one and yet 

Page Ninety-Three 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

it was progressive and we are today arrived at a 
point that former centuries could not approach. It was 
quite a long time before we find actors and above all 
actresses showing their faces on the stage. It was in 
the reign of Louis XIV., that this much desired change 
occurred. It was then also that much greater atten- 
tion was paid to hair dressing and it was then also that 
wigs were in their full glory. The King would wear 
no wigs, as he had a splendid head of hair which he 
did not hesitate to show in his court. Powdered wigs 
were then the vogue and they were for the most part 
anything but fascinating, as they were much neglected 
by their wearers and easily became soiled and really 
not fit to wear by any cleanly person. As they were 
all white, being made of horse-hair, the incongruity 
of their presence on the head may be easily imagined. 
This fashion, however, continued for quite a number 
of years and finally we find that the full-bottomed 
wig gave place to a neater style and one that might 
even be called elegant. These latter were the ones 
affected by the younger men and the effect was not 
a bad one by any means. Coming to more modern times 
still we have noted that today there exist the wigs, 
peri-wigs and perruques. The judicial wig has but 
one or two hammers and the peri-wig three or four 
and is much longer than the former. It is the custom 
at this day that the judges of the Superior Courts in 
England wear the peri-wig and all Counsel are re- 
quired to wear a gown and a peri-wig. This has been 
the custom for many years and it still survives up to 
this day. 

The wigs that are usually worn by men are adopted 
for one of two reasons. One is to present a comelier 
appearance and the other is to keep the bald head 
warm. These are usually given and with very good 
reason, for the former does give a better and more 
youthful look to a man and the other protects him 
from attacks of coryza and influenza, and thus the 

Page Ninety-Four 



Fig. 56. 
Plica Polonica. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

wig proves a comfort as well as preventive of severe 
colds. So far as the wearing of wigs by women is 
concerned we have several reasons given for their 
adoption. One is to make them look younger and 
this is, of course, a very laudable purpose; the second 
reason is for protection from colds, catarrh, coryza, 
and sniffles. One which is seen among certain com- 
munities and it is very noteworthy as well as noticeable, 
is for the purpose of hiding the fact that the wearer 
has plica polonica or matted hair which cannot be dis- 
entangled. Those so afflicted are generally Irish 
women and there is a superstition among them that the 
only method of being rid of this condition is fatal, 
and for that reason they never undergo the operation, 
which consists in simply shaving the scalp. They have 
no concern whatever for their looks nor do they care 
to have beauty or refinement in their traits, but they 
do have an immense amount of affection for their 
children and they do not care to die and leave their 
progeny in the hands of others. We wish now to 
mention another wig which is known as the toupee and 
is a rather flat affair placed upon the front part of the 
scalp to cover a very pronounced bald spot. It is 
simply used as a little piece of vanity and hides nothing. 



Page Ninety-Five 



CHAPTER XV. 



HAIR DYES. 



The next subject which suggests itself to us is 
dyeing the hair. This is more of a habit than a 
necessity. The most recent craze has been to dye 
the hair blue, purple, green or some other striking color. 
Of course, this is an ultra fashion of the foolish vir- 
gins, and has been chiefly affected by very advanced 
actresses and others who wished to imitate them in 
their insane fashions. But the craze was short-lived. 
These dyes were never adopted by men, but there 
is one that has held its own with men and women 
for many years and bids fair to do so for many years 
to come, despite the warnings that have been given. 
This is the making of hair assume the color of black. 
Men who are beginning to show their white hair, in a 
more or less pronounced manner, affect this self-de- 
ception, for such it is, as no one else is deceived. It 
is a very clumsy manner of assuming the appearance 
of youth by a doddering fool who plainly shows all 
the weakness and foibles of rapidly approaching 
senility. 

We have no patience with such decayed ruins of 
what were formerly good examples of manhood and 
vigorous mental powers. The beginning of the trouble 
may be observed in the adoption of the gentle hint 
of the barber to give the moustache a touch of a black 
color. "It adds so much to the looks, and no one 
will perceive this artificial help." The ready victim 
soon acquires the habit and we are treated to the 
view of a man so gray-haired that he is nearly white, 
sporting a pair of black, shiny moustaches and trying 
to ape a young buck such as he remembers him in 
his salad days. This is, indeed, a pitiful sight and 

Page Ninety-Six 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

causes a smile of mixed amusement and pity on the 
faces of the on-lookers. A sensible student of an- 
thropology simply adds this specimen as one more in 
his collection of examples of this particular phase of 
mental aberration. That it is such has been amply 
proven by the cases of insanity developed in the per- 
sistent use of black hair dyes. Whether it was the 
action of the silver or the lead salts in the dye that 
brought about such a condition cannot be definitely 
stated, unless the corpus delicti be on hand and ex- 
amined. 

The appearance of the dyed moustache is so good 
that it induces the self-deceiver to have a dash of the 
same dye applied to his hair, and the result is that 
he has fallen a victim to the habit and all its terrible 
consequences as well. The men who easily lose their 
minds through such means, never were brilliant exem- 
plars of anything and the only funeral oration spoken 
over them is that of Hamlet — Alas! poor Yorick. 
But it must not be supposed that the black hair dye 
habit is limited to men, for there probably exist as 
many fools among women who desire to hide their 
white hairs or a head or red hair, with a brown or 
even black dye. And this is not confined to the 
younger generation but even to old grandmothers, who 
ought to be satisfied with the records they made in 
their younger years. And it is not on account of 
the demands of society that they fly to these evils of 
whose dangers they reck not. No, it is rather vanity 
that urges them on, to show the younger women that 
an increase in the number of years put to their 
credit is no reason to place them in the class of "old 
women." As in the case of the men who have their 
hair dyed black the day of reckoning is coming on 
apace. The habit is a very bad one and a due amount 
of caution and diligence in the care of the hair that 
is gray or even white will be met by its reward and 
a much better appearance presented than by a super- 
Page Ninety-Seven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

saturation of black hair, which everyone may see is 
artificially tinctured. This is equally as palpable as 
the effects following the use of peroxide of hydrogen 
to bleach the hair. This method was one followed 
by the ladies of easy virtue of ancient Rome and they 
were easily recognized on the Appian way, the fash- 
ionable drive of the Roman capitol. All the young 
men were attracted to the peroxide blondes, and all 
the older beaux paid them their devoirs. So it came 
about that the notorious women of Rome attracted 
the attention of the Northern barbarians, whose women, 
though blondes, did not exhibit such shining golden 
tresses as the liberal ladies of the more civilized nation, 
that lay south of them. And thus it was that as a 
matter of fact the fall of Rome was precipitated by 
a bottle of peroxide of hydrogen. 



Page Ninety-Eight 



CHAPTER XVI. 



REMOVAL OF SUPERFLUOUS HAIR. 

The removal of superfluous hairs has been prac- 
ticed for many centuries with more or less success. 
The custom of the North American Indian has been 
to pluck out the offending hairs and to keep on doing 
this until they are totally and completely extirpated. 
It is a method that is painful and requires an Indian's 
stoicism to bear. It would, perhaps, be asking too 
much to expect such a rude method to be adopted 
by whites for the purpose. The Orientals have a 
much more gentle method, consisting in the use of 
depilatories. These depilatories are still popular with 
women and with girls and only have one disadvantage 
— they temporarily destroy the hair, which begins grow- 
ing with renewed vigor. In other words, the destruc- 
tion of the hair is merely superficial, and the part 
that should be destroyed remains untouched. That 
part is the papilla and it lies deep in the sheath of the 
hair, and it is yet a problem to make a substance which, 
by rubbing, will penetrate to this part. 

It must be borne in mind that the space between 
the hair shaft and the membrane surrounding it, is very 
small and, on that account, very little of the depilatory 
can be forced down to the papilla so as to have an 
action on it, and, in that manner, prevent the growth 
of the hair. This is one of the problems now de- 
manding solution. In the meantime the work goes 
on, and organic chemistry has many drafts made on it 
in an endeavor to solve the problem. The fact that 
they are generally unsatisfactory, as radical measures, 
has made for the preparations on the open market a 
ready sale, for those who begin using them find them- 
selves condemned to continually use them. 

Page Ninety-Nine 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

Those who are most solicitous of having superfluous 
hair removed are girls who have a growth of heavy 
down on the upper lip. It is most pronounced in those 
who have black hair, and their desire to rid themselves 
of this growth is for purely cosmetic reasons. They 
think that its presence detracts from their good looks 
when, as a matter of fact, its presence really adds 
to the piquancy of their faces. But, as the old 
philosopher said, de gustibus non disputantur, there 
is no disputing taste. It is just as sensible to argue 
about colors and odors. Let each one have his or 
her choice. If a young lady objects to a "shadow" 
on her lip, it is her right to dispose of it as may seem 
best to her. If it is a source of mortification to her 
and she very naturally objects to such an ornament, 
no amount of arguments can persuade her that it is 
an ornament, or makes her look more comely. The 
only thing to do is to cause it to disappear and thus 
restore the young lady's mental equanimity. 

The depilatories which are most usually employed 
are about as follows: 

50 parts of quicklime. 

30 parts of starch. 
5 parts of orpiment. 
This is to be made into a paste with water and 
spread on the hairy part to the thickness of one-twelfth 
inch and should remain ten minutes in place. Then it 
may be removed with a sponge and the hairs will 
come off with it. 

Another formula is that wherein the ingredients are 
as follows : 

Sulphide of barium one drachm. 

Powdered starch one ounce. 

Make into a paste and use like the above. 

These formulas could be repeated ad nauseam, but 
they are all practically alike. The principle is essen- 

Page One Hundred 




Fig. 57. 
Hair Showing Root and Sheath. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



tially the same in all, and the results are identically 
unsatisfactory, so far as a permanent removal of the 
hair is concerned. The most difficult part is the mak- 
ing of the mixture and the subsequent composing of 
the paste. One disagreeable feature to guard against 
is to be careful not to leave the paste too long on 
the skin, as it may produce ulcers in such a case. 
These mixtures must be used with care and much 
attention be given the treatment. If not carefully 
done and watched, very bad results may follow their 
use. Perhaps, after all, it is best to have recourse 
to the radical method of extirpating hair which may 
be briefly described as follows: An irido-platinum 
needle, placed in a suitable needle-holder, is connected 
with the negative pole of a galvanic battery. The 
positive pole is usually a sponge or a bowl of clean, 
perfumed water. The needle is introduced into the 
canal in which the hair is located clear down to the 
papilla which is the objective point. The current, 
which should be of 12 milliamperes, is turned on and 
a small froth appears at the mouth of the follicle. This 
froth is caused by hydrogen gas which results from 
the electrolytic decomposition of the hair root and its 
papilla. The hair is then very lightly grasped with 
Piffard's epilating forceps and comes out entirely de- 
void of the root, the termination of the hair being en- 
tirely denuded of its bulb or "root." This is a total 
destruction of that hair. Its nourishing end organ, 
the papilla, being destroyed, there remains but little 
hope or even possibility that it will resume its growth. 
When all the hairs have been destroyed in this 
manner, it will be noted that each follicle is surrounded 
by a small red ring and this is to be treated with some 
soothing ointment, made as follows : 

Acetanilide ten grains. 

Bismuth subnitrate half drachm. 

Powdered camphor six grains. 

Rose water ointment ........ one ounce. 

Page One Hundred One 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

It is rubbed into the skin at each sitting and three 
times daily after the complete operation has been 
performed. It is a preparation to allay the irritation 
and cause a rapid return to normal conditions. This 
is usually regarded as a very satisfactory termination, 
but one thing must not be forgotten, no matter how 
well the skin looks nor how smooth it has become, one- 
third of the hairs will return. That is, the electric 
current will have so stimulated the lanugo hairs that 
they will take on a renewed growth and the end result 
will be a very disappointing one. Another medical 
method for the complete destruction of hair is by 
means of the Roentgen rays. These powerful rays 
will promptly destroy the hairs, but will also produce 
a mild x-ray inflammation which is most stubborn to 
relieve, and the deformity is perhaps as great, if not 
more so, than the excessive growth of hair. So take 
it as we may, the whole matter is a problem wherein 
the services of a physician will always be necessary. 
Electrolysis as a means requires an expert to use it, 
and the x-ray demands more care and perhaps more 
skill, and altogether it is a mcst unsatisfactory matter. 
We have seen girls become desperate and resort to 
shaving, and they were getting in a fair way to be- 
come bearded women, which perhaps while not so 
attractive would be more profitable as a means of 
making and acquiring money. The whole problem is a 
difficult one to solve and one that is anything but 
pleasant to contemplate. 



Page One Hundred Two 



CHAPTER XVII. 



SPLITTING AND BREAKING OF THE HAIR. 

There exist some conditions of the hair which are 
a continuous source of annoyance to those who are 
so affected. Among these is one which is known as 
fragilitas crinium and which is characterized by a split- 
ting and breaking of the hair. These two conditions 
are certainly most annoying, more especially to women, 
as the treatment of these conditions is anything but 
pleasant, and the results obtained are but mediocre, 
unless the method be an excellent one and its applica- 
tion be handled with skill and that carefulness which 
the condition demands. It is herein that the crux of the 
whole matter lies. Another prerequisite is a needful 
amount of patience. With these necessary conditions 
furnished, a good result may be expected, and the 
condition will become a story of the past. In all 
these cases it is a necessity to have the general condi- 
tion of health thoroughly determined by a careful as 
well as skillful physician, and the treatment that is 
ordered should be well chosen. It is not necessary 
to have a physician who finds a "leaking" heart in 
every patient whom he examines, but one who is capa- 
ble and who is able to confirm his diagnosis by the 
sphygmograph if the implicated organ be pronounced 
the heart. This is mentioned merely for the purpose 
of calling attention to the necessity of having skilled 
counsel in such matters as are considered important 
or of more than ordinary moment. In the case of 
split hair it is an ordinary thing to find that a small 
split soon spreads until a considerable part of the shaft 
is involved, and it appears to have been converted into 
three, four or five hairs. This is a condition which is 
soon observed by a woman, and it is one which easily 
Page One Hundred Three 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

alarms her, and she is apt to consult her physician 
who, unfortunately, in many cases, laughs at her fears, 
until the condition becomes so serious that he advises 
his patient to see a specialist. In the case of fragility 
of the hair there is a veritable break in the hair-shaft 
as shown in the annexed figure, and as a result much 
alarm is felt by the one so affected. In either event, 
it would be best to try to overcome the nervousness 
which manifests itself and which is certain to aggra- 
vate the condition over which so much anxiety is felt. 
In order to diminish this nervous feeling, it would be 
a good idea, and one that is advantageous, to take 
syrup of hypophosphites regularly and make it as much 
of a duty as it is to eat meals regularly. It is not 
by any spasmodic treatment that an advantage can 
be gained, but rather by a continuous and continued 
attention given to the condition that must be corrected. 
All these disorders of a nervous origin require much 
and constant attention, and need management more than 
medication. The local treatment, of course, must not 
be forgotten, and in the case of the splitting of the 
hair this tendency must be arrested by cutting off all 
the hairs so affected above the point of splitting. No 
untoward symptoms will follow, but there will set in 
a new mode of growth and the new hair will be normal 
in appearance and growth. 

In those cases in which the hairs break off, the 
same manoeuvre will succeed and as a result a new 
growth of good and sound hair will set in. 

It is also a very good idea to gently comb the 
hair and employ a mild shampoo and a gentle massage. 
This spares the hairs and the breaking off or splitting 
is pretty nearly obviated. It is also a good idea oc- 
casionally to use a bland oil sparingly and very care- 
fully so as not to have the hair drenched with it. A 
very useful help in the management of the hair is not 
to expose it to any great heat such as sunshine, radia- 
tors, or hot air heaters. An equable temperature is 

Page One Hundred Four 




Fig. 58. 
Fragility of the Hair. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

the best and most advantageous. But, when we look 
at the condition more narrowly the best treatment is, 
beyond a doubt, that which is advised by a competent 
specialist in skin and hair diseases. It is very praise- 
worthy for a layman to make an effort to attend to this 
matter of treatment but it is usually followed by fail- 
ure, so far as satisfactory results are concerned. 



Page One Hundred Five 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



KNOTTING OF THE HAIR. 

Another annoying condition of the hair is trichor- 
rhexis nodosa, or knotting of the hair as it is com- 
monly called. It occurs pretty frequently and is seen 
most often as affecting the hair of the head in women 
and of the moustache in men. It appears to the naked 
eye like a little lump on the hair and it cannot be 
drawn out. It is most often observed in adult life 
and is a source of annoyance to those affected by 
it. It is, in reality, a peculiar and interesting con- 
dition. The hair suffers a break and the two extremities 
of the break make the hair assume an appearance and 
a condition closely simulating a brush, the two brush- 
like ends, when pressed against each other, forming 
a little swelling. This is called a "knot," hence the 
term knotted hair. The condition has a pecu- 
liar appearance and is certain to arouse the curiosity 
of many who are more desirous of asking questions than 
of proffering assistance. The appearance of knotted 
hair is that of very small black beads strung on the 
hair. That the condition is not rare is the general 
consensus of opinion among dermatologists. Those 
for whom these pages have been written can do noth- 
ing better than to consult an expert in the event that 
they are affected in this manner. 

Concerning the treatment, so far as the local ap- 
pearance is concerned, the better method to pursue 
is to cut out the knots with a small pair of scissors. 
In this manner the deformity is removed, and there is 
nothing left to draw the attention of those who are 
always looking for something that will give them an 
opportunity of asking questions. The condition is one 
of some little interest but in no way dangerous, although 
Page One Hundred Six 




Fig. 59. 
Knotted Hair (Trichorrhexis Nodosa). 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

it is a signal to call attention to a more serious con- 
dition which requires care and treatment at the hands 
of some capable physician. As stated above, the affec- 
tion of the hair is in itself more curious than dan- 
gerous. The local treatment which has been pointed 
out will be sufficient, and more than seconded by the 
general treatment which the physician will give. 



Page One Hundred Seven 



CHAPTER XIX. 



OILINESS OF THE HAIR. 

A most disagreeable as well as inconvenient con- 
dition is oiliness of the hair. It is a condition which 
is common enough and is chiefly observed in those 
who have what is known as a greasy skin. This fat 
is not solely derived from the sebaceous glands, but 
is also contributed, in large part, by the fatty ma- 
terial of the food and is most prominent in those who 
have a taste or a preference for fatty food. It is a 
well-known fact to some that if a person be given 
large doses of olive or cod-liver oil and that if this 
be kept up for a considerable period, the time will 
come when the oil may be squeezed out of the fin- 
gers, and will ooze upon the slightest pressure. This 
is so marked a trait that some physicians have pro- 
posed to administer remedies in one of these two oils, 
so as to insure their presence in all the tissues. The 
method is possible if a patient can be found who will 
swallow such a large quantity of oil. Now, if oil 
can easily disseminate itself through the human or- 
ganism, we can readily understand how the adipose 
material may equally spread throughout the hu- 
man organism and find itself around the hairs and 
finally distribute along their shafts by capillary 
attraction. This will naturally give that shiny, oily 
appearance which is noted in oiliness of the hair. The 
term is well chosen, for if the fingers be passed over 
this hair and then pressed upon white paper, the oil 
is transferred upon the latter in the form of the palmar 
surfaces of the fingers. 

A concomitant sign observed in those affected with 
oiliness of the hair, is that the skin in general seems 
to have an oily appearance, and it is never of that 

Page One Hundred Eight 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

white appearance that is so much admired. Another 
trait in connection with oiliness of the hair is that 
those so affected have dark or black hair and a very 
strong growth of it. They possess that more or less 
lustrous appearance of the skin which is caused by an 
abundance of fat in the tissues. It is a very mortifying 
state of affairs for young women, and those matrons 
who are fair, fat and forty. So far as men are con- 
cerned they dispose of the matter by taking a good 
shampoo. But this does not dispose of the matter 
finally. The treatment is perhaps a little more com- 
plicated and we will now outline it in a few words. 
The method of getting rid of oiliness of hair is to 
treat the hair by rubbing in carbonate of magnesia 
which takes up all the oil and is afterwards brushed 
out. Following this, there should be a light shampoo, 
care being taken that the soap used is devoid of alkali 
as much as possible. Another phase in this treatment 
is to brush the hair in such a manner as not to permit 
it to become very oily. This may be accomplished 
by passing the hair through soft cloths and avoiding 
all hair-dressings which contain oil. One thing not 
to do is to use alcohol and dressings containing much 
ethylic spirits, as this will bring about a dryness of 
the hair and render it brittle and easily broken. This 
latter condition, added to the dandruff which will also 
be formed, is hardly an improvement on oiliness of 
the hair. This is why there must be careful manage- 
ment of the hair when it is affected by oiliness. The 
diet should be restricted in such manner that no fats 
will be formed by the food that is eaten. There should 
be an avoidance of fats and carbohydrates, and rich 
soups, sauces and gravies should be marked as taboo. 
A careful regulation of diet will act as an excellent 
aid in the management of oiliness of the hair. 



Page One Hundred Nine 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



PARASITIC INVASIONS OF THE SCALP. 

The parasitic invasions of the scalp may be divided 
into those of animal and those of vegetable origin. 
The animal parasites are head and body-lice, sand- 
fleas, fleas, chiggers, ticks and chicken-lice. These 
are all from animals or articles of wear except the 
bed bug, which seems to be universal and very prone 
to live in wood. The vegetable parasites are ring- 
worm and f avus (honey-comb ring-worm) , which may 
be contracted from cats or mice as well as horses, 
but are generally transferred from one human being 
to another. These parasites infest the surface of the 
animal, and the vegetable parasites penetrate into the 
shafts of the hair whilst also superficial; they all itch. 

No matter how cleanly a person may be, nor 
how much care is given to the scalp, it is not an unusual 
occurrence to notice head parasites whose origin is 
very difficult to trace. In these days of street car 
riding it is a comparatively common occurrence to be 
the subject of attacks by these pests, which are great 
blood-suckers and irritating. The best way to get 
rid of them is to take a good shampoo and follow 
it up with the application of the tincture of stavesacre, 
which will kill all the parasites and destroy their 
eggs (or nits). 



Page One Hundred Ten 




I: 



Fig. 60. 
Honey-comb Ring Worm. 



CHAPTER XX. 



DRYNESS OF THE HAIR. 

A condition which is far from attractive and which 
is occasionally observed, is dryness of the hair. It is 
a state which becomes positively distressing to the 
one affected by it. For it is not alone the dull, dry, 
lustreless and dead look that troubles, but the hair's 
brittleness and proneness to break easily and into small 
pieces. It is a condition which is, in every sense and 
from every viewpoint, extremely annoying. This con- 
dition is one that is found in men and in women, more 
especially in those who have what is known as a lym- 
phatic temperament. When such individuals are ex- 
amined, they are found to be more or less pale; in 
fact, they do not present the appearance of having 
red blood in their veins. They are cold, apathetic 
and listless, and not ever ready to take part in their 
own affairs with any vim or energy. From a psy- 
chological point of view their brains are sluggish, they 
are slow in forming judgments, and averse to begin 
or carry on any intellectual work. In fact, they are 
dead and whatever motion there exists is purely per- 
functory and automatic. Their hair looks like dead 
straw and is as attractive. This condition is seen at 
all ages and in the conditions of individuals whether 
they be rich, poor, or in any other circumstances. 
There is no doubt whatever that it is an indication 
of depressed physical vitality; and that may, in part, 
account for the fact that it is most frequently observed 
in the poor and over-worked. But to speak more 
directly to the subject; a condition quite frequently 
observed in these individuals is fragilitas crinium or 
brittleness of the hair. The individual hairs break quite 
frequently as is shown in Fig. 54. This fragility of 

Page One Hundred Eleven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

the hair distributes small pieces on the clothing and 
gives the appearance of having had them clipped at 
some barber-shop. In addition to this the small pieces 
of hair fall inside the underwear and cause an itching, 
thus rendering the life of the one with this condition 
more or less miserable and inconvenient. These 
small particles are easily seen, from the fact that 
those who are affected with dryness of the hair 
are blondes most frequently, and their hair loss 
is thus necessarily observed upon dark clothing. 
It is these individuals who are continually indulging 
in it. They simply aggravate the condition and very 
soon the inevitable occurs — they lose their hair. The 
condition of dryness of the hair, from what has been 
said upon it, is easily surmised to depend, in great 
part, upon a general atonic condition of the organism. 
This very fact easily points out the remedial measures 
to adopt. They should be directed to improving nu- 
trition, promoting circulation, and furnishing fat to 
the scalp and through it to the hair. By the adop- 
tion of such means a general improvement will be 
established and the remote good effects upon the hair 
will manifest themselves. 

Besides establishing a good nutrition proper attention 
should be paid to metabolism, and constant efforts 
should be made to direct the nutritive properties of 
food into proper channels and incorporate oils and 
fats into the daily diet so as to furnish to the hair 
that of which it stands in need. Medicines will avail 
but little; diet and care will do more, and the proper 
care of the hair and the avoidance of all deleterious 
substances and methods will accomplish the rest. Of 
course, the physician who sees the case will recom- 
mend iron to help the general condition, and there is 
no doubt whatever that it will do so. The final dis- 
appearance of the dryness of the hair will only mean 
that the methods which have been advocated require 
their constant use and application. 

Page One Hundred Twelve 



Fig. 61. 
Barbers' Itch. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



DISEASES OF THE HAIR FOLLICLE. 

These are divided into inflammatory, hypertrophic 
and atrophic. In the inflammatory we have the forma- 
tion of pus and a condition that attracts much atten- 
tion and is sometimes difficult to manage. It is par- 
ticularly well developed in sycosis, barber's itch and 
ring-worm of the beard and of the hair. 



Page One Hundred Thirteen 



CHAPTER XXI, 



SHAVING. 

There can exist no doubt that the operation of 
shaving the face is practiced more for cosmetic pur- 
poses than for any other. When we endeavor to trace 
the history of shaving we find no records, no pictures 
nor any other documents by which to trace the age 
of this custom. We are given a tradition that Alex- 
ander the Great shaved, and there exist medals and 
coins which represent him as a shaven youth. But 
beyond this we do not possess any evidence on this 
point. We do know that the Greek and the Roman 
soldiers shaved. Pericles in all the effigies of him 
is represented as clean shaven, so that, from these 
examples, we may surmise that shaving is one of the 
most ancient customs that exist, in so far as docu- 
mentary evidence can inform us. 

When we come down to more modern times, we 
find that the process of shaving was done by each one 
for himself, but there arose the barbers who, besides 
shaving, practiced minor surgery, and gradually took 
up for themselves the practice of surgery. So much 
did the surgeons resent this that an active enmity sprang 
up between them. The Royal College of Surgeons of 
England is merely a continuation of the Royal Cor- 
poration of Barbers. The method of shaving them- 
selves by individuals is spreading more and more since 
the past few years and this has been caused by the 
introduction of the safety razor. This is highly praised 
by some, but a large number prefer the old-fashioned 
razor. Whichever is chosen, it is necessary to learn 
how to use a razor. The principal point to observe 
is, that the blade be sharp and that the shaving be 
close, in order to have a good result. There are some 

Page One Hundred Fourteen 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

who cannot bear a close shave and they never show 
that clean appearance which a fresh shave is sup- 
posed to present. So far as the method of shaving 
is concerned, every one learns this, and the principal 
advice to give is that he who shaves himself should 
learn how to keep his razor sharp and acquire the art 
of stropping it well. With the safety razor it is a 
different matter, for directly a blade gets dull, it may 
be replaced by a new one which is sharp. This is an 
essential point, especially with those who have stiff 
beards, for if there is anything exasperating it is a 
razor that is dull or which "pulls." To some it is 
a pleasure to shave themselves, to others it is a punish- 
ment, and they even get nervous at having to spend 
so much time in a barber's chair. But, above all, 
observe cleanliness. There is one class that never 
shaves, and that is the orthodox Jew. He simply 
uses curved scissors and cuts the hair of the beard 
very close to the skin and this is done so skillfully 
that it looks like a shave. These are all old men. 
The reformed Jew goes to the barber, gets shaved 
like any Gentile does and is apparently well satisfied 
with this infraction of the Hebraic rule. 



Page One Hundred Fifteen 



CHAPTER XXII. 



THE BARBER SHOP. 

In these modern days the custom is to go to a barber 
shop and there indulge in the luxury of a good shave. 
The most simple as well as primitive barber shop 
may be seen in China, Japan, Persia, Turkey and 
other Oriental countries. The entire establishment con- 
sists of a chair which is placed on the sidewalk or in 
the street. The barber steps up and does his work of 
shaving. He is not held to wash his customer or to 
give those other services to which civilized man is 
accustomed. The primitive barber will also let the 
one who gets shaved wash his own face and comb 
his hair. He has been requested to shave and his 
functions end there. In the barber shops of this 
country especially, the care and attention given to a 
customer are numerous and interesting. The barbers 
here as in other countries and in other times, are very 
much inclined to be talkative, and to air opinions 
on all and every subject in a manner that leads you 
to suppose that you are listening to a sage who speaks 
ex cathedra. Altogether he is not as useful as he 
imagines he is. As a retailer of petty gossip he is 
a medium success. He is a queer fish and never satis- 
fied with doing what he is asked to do, but has a 
hundred and one suggestions which are very distasteful. 
What he should really do is keep the shop as aseptic 
as lies in his power. He should always be dressed in 
white and see to it that his tools shine and are ab- 
solutely clean. His further duty is to keep his razor 
particularly free from germs, which he may do by 
plunging it in boiling water several times a day. This 
maneuvre is not for effect, but also to prevent those 
Page One Hundred Sixteen 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

who patronize him from contracting barber's itch, which 
is unpleasant and highly contagious. 

In order to preserve his patronage a good barber 
will never fail in this particular. It is to his ad- 
vantage and the life of his shop depends absolutely 
on this care and attention. 

Another point which should be insisted upon is clean 
towels. Each and every customer should have clean 
towels used on him, and not such as have been used 
on others. It is not alone to prevent the transmission 
of contagious diseases, but it is necessary as a cleanly 
and hygienic precaution. All things and persons, in 
a barber shop, should be as clean as it is possible to 
make them, and no suspicion of dust or any other 
foreign material should be present or visible. Under 
these conditions we may expect to receive the services 
of a barber without subsequently having recourse to 
a physician. These few words on the hygiene of the 
barber shop will be found sufficient if thereto be added 
the caution that the barber have clean hands, no un- 
sightly rags wrapped about any of his fingers, and 
that he have his nails manicured. Indeed, he should 
present himself as an example of what he intends to 
make of his customer. In this manner will he gain 
patronage and his barber shop renown. 

Most men who go to a barber shop ask for a close 
shave. This gives a very smooth appearance to the 
skin, but it is a very bad custom to follow. In 
the first place the close shave removes the delicate 
upper layer of the skin, exposes the fine blood vessels 
to the air, also denudes the still finer nerves of 
their natural protection, and the result is that one who 
has had a very close shave presents, in a very few 
hours, a face that looks as if it had been rubbed with 
a rough cloth, and the appearance is anything but 
esthetic. A good shave is sufficient; a close shave is 
too much. 

Page One Hundred Seventeen 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



BALDNESS. 

A glance at Fig. 3 will show some dead 
hairs, as they are called, which are hairs devoid of 
roots and in which the papilla is missing. The very 
fact of their not possessing a papilla argues a lack 
of nutrition, and the common name of dead hairs is 
a very appropriate one. These hairs easily separate 
themselves from the scalp, and, as a result, the con- 
dition known as falling of the hair sets in. It is 
a most annoying thing and the clothes become more 
or less covered with these dead hairs, and the con- 
dition seems to become aggravated the longer it con- 
tinues. After it has manifested itself for some time 
the scalp has a more or less grayish color and dead 
look, and the entire appearance presented is one that 
looks very much as if the hairy scalp was moth-eaten, 
which is, beyond doubt, very mortifying to the one 
so affected. In addition to the loss of hair that which 
remains is dry, brittle, and presents a general unhealth- 
•ful appearance. It has been stated that a woman's 
hair is her glory, but when it is in the condition which 
has just been described, it is anything but a glory 
and it is the duty of one so affected to use her utmost 
efforts to conceal it. The manner of correcting such 
a condition is a rather complex one, inasmuch as the 
general health and strength of the individual require 
iron tonics and those of a nature which will tend 
to improve the nutritive processes and favor absorp- 
tion as well as elimination and, in general, aid the 
entire process of nutrition, absorption, elimination and 
stimulate metabolism that may be failing. These are 
problems for the physician to solve and he must so 
adapt his treatment that all these conditions are filled 

Page One Hundred Eighteen 




Fig. 62. 
Baldness in Spots (Symptomatic). 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

and so that his patient will no longer present a pale, 
cachectic appearance but rather one that is rubicund 
and who shows how good the circulation of the blood 
is, and presents all the signs of good health, increasing 
force and vigor. All of this is intended to convey 
the information that a good strengthening tonic is what 
is required in such a case. In fact, it must be a 
tonic to help the tissues, to raise the spirits and fill the 
individual with that vim and push that are so necessary 
to achieve things. With such a course, the hair, in- 
stead of falling out, will be more firmly Set in its 
sockets. The dead appearance will give way to the 
glossy hair which will soon spring up to replace the 
dead ones which have disappeared. The falling out of 
the hair may be retarded by the careful use of a lotion 
like the following: 

Resorcin resublimed nine grains. 

Pure alcohol (80%) one ounce. 

Bay rum four ounces. 

Oil of roses four drops. 

Spirits of camphor one ounce. 

This should be applied twice daily very sparingly 
to the scalp. 

If it is desirable to make the result a more rapid 
one the following may be employed: 

Beta naphthol four scruples. 

Pure alcohol (80% ) six ounces. 

Spirits of verbena one ounce. 

This should be applied to the scalp in small quan- 
tity twice daily. In order to aid the effect, it will be 
found that a very slight application of peanut oil 
will help to overcome the brittleness, but any excess 
of oil should be removed with soft cloths. The careful 
use of the recipes just given will greatly help to render 
Page One Hundred Nineteen 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

the hair less dry, give a lustre and a more healthy ap- 
pearance and condition, and thus make it better in all 
respects. But this is merely the local treatment to 
which should be added the general tonic that is in- 
dicated in the case under advisement. Men and 
women both who are troubled with falling out of the 
hair will find this of benefit. 

And now we come to baldness, a common enough 
condition which has several forms and depends for 
its cause upon as many conditions. To begin with, 
there is complete baldness, partial baldness, and bald- 
ness in spots, and these are furthermore divided into 
senile baldness, pre-senile baldness and the baldness 
of youth. It is a generally accepted opinion that the 
age which ushers in the decline of life is always char- 
acterized by baldness and this baldness is usually of 
the partial variety. Senile baldness generally conveys 
the impression of honor and dignity and carries with 
it the opinion that it is a sign of wisdom such as is 
possessed by those who have attained a ripe old age. 
In these cases, we find that the tissues have undergone 
senile atrophy and that other symptoms of senility are 
not slow to manifest themselves. In fact, the accom- 
paniments of this condition are rather marked and the 
atrophic condition shows itself in all the various phases 
in which it is easily recognized. We notice the lack 
of spring in the gait, the mind is not as rapidly ap- 
preciative as it formerly was and there is a tendency 
to garrulousness and complaint. There are also little 
traits that point very clearly to the advance of age 
and to a lack of appreciation of the breakdown that 
is creeping on, to fully manifest itself later on. We 
are presented with the sight of an individual who has 
one foot in the grave. They will not acknowledge 
the soft impeachment, more especially if women are 
concerned, and they will resort to all the known meth- ' 
ods of appearing young by the aid of artificial means. 
But it must not be forgotten that it is not women 

Page One Hundred Twenty 




Fig. 63. 
Partial Baldness Due to Erysipelas. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

alone who resort to these means, for men are equally 
guilty of the crime of deceiving. Be this as it may, 
one fault remains which is that men are much more 
prone to become bald than women. It is very often 
said by those who are bald that this condition is 
honorable, whereas their friends with a good suite of 
hair state that baldness is a bad sign and reflects on 
the conduct of him who is so disgraced. This mat- 
ter, however, is one of purely personal opinion. From 
a cosmetic point of view, we note cases which are due 
to disturbances of the general health, and they are 
justly so, whether this disturbance has been due to 
illness or one brought on by other causes. 

Baldness due to disturbance of the general health is 
usually very marked. An example of this sort is 
given in Fig. 64 in which it will be seen that there 
is but one hair on the head; and the subject did 
not have another one on the whole body. His entire 
hairy system was reduced to one hair and yet he 
seemed to be contented enough. We meet examples 
of complete baldness every day in persons who have 
but a small fringe of hair left to remind them of 
former days. In the case which is figured the cause 
was found to have been acute articular rheumatism, 
and in those which are so often met, there is some dis- 
turbance of the general health or there is a history 
of typhoid fever, abdominal typhus or a general de- 
pressive form of malady that makes its effects felt 
for a long time after a cure has set in. Those are 
the cases which require the services of a good phy- 
sician in order to re-establish their condition on a 
good sound foundation. 

Then again, there are cases of baldness which are 
caused by local diseases of the scalp. These diseases 
may be either parasitic or inflammatory. In the for- 
mer are to be included ringworm of the hair, honey- 
comb ringworm (favus) or some other of that nature. 
The baldness which ensues is a marked one and one 
Page One Hundred Twenty-One 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

that gives all the signs of being permanent. It is 
no unusual thing to see this variety, and the hopes 
that can be given for a return of the hair are small 
indeed. The much vaunted cures for baldness have 
not yet proven themselves to be reliable, and we must 
rest content with the sight of hairless folks or others 
which have a small growth like the down of a gosling. 
The physician who essays the task of restoring a full 
head of hair has his problem which, like Banquo's 
ghost, is ever standing before him, stretching out an 
accusing linger. 

Similar to this latter form of baldness is what is 
known to physicians as alopecia areata or baldness 
in areas or spots. This shows itself in small areas 
of the size of a silver quarter-dollar or half-dollar, 
and may be one in number or numerous. The scalp 
looks like a piece of ivory and the head, so affected, 
is indeed a comic sight. The condition is not a com- 
mon one, and it attracts much attention. This variety 
of baldness is, beyond question, one that is caused 
by nervous influences, and the treatment for it, both 
local and general, should be entrusted to one who is a 
specialist in skin diseases and of whom good results may 
be expected. This spotted baldness is one that is 
characterized by an increase in the number of bald 
spots and a tendency to become chronic and to be 
a source of worry and anxiety to the one so affected. 
In all the forms which have been mentioned both 
males and females are affected, with a preponderance 
of males, and they all suffer more mental disturbance 
than they would from a dangerous general disease. 
There is a constant unrest and a desire for a cure 
that is really touching, and, at times, an annoyance to 
the physician and a source of disagreeable feelings on 
the part of the family or of those with whom they 
come in frequent contact. When the case is one that 
has been caused by erysipelas it is a foregone con- 
clusion that once the erysipelas is cured, the baldness 

Page One Hundred Twenty-Two 



7% 




Fig. 64. 
Alopecia Areata — Partial Baldness. 




Fig. 65. 

Baldness in Spots (Alopecia Areata). 




Fig. .66. 
Complete Baldness; Caused by Rheumatism. 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR A\D SCALP 

disappears or rather the hair reappears. In such cases 
it requires only the exercise of common sense and rea- 
son together with a modicum of patience to insure a 
happy termination. 

Simple baldness is that which in the course of a 
few years is manifested by a continuous falling of 
the hair, aided and abetted by too much shampooing. 
The shampooing rubs out the hair that manifested 
some little inclination to grow and this is smothered 
in the bud by the over-omciousness of the barber. This 
matter of shampooing is regarded too much in the 
light of a necessity, when in reality it is a luxury. 
The American Indian is never shampooed and there is 
only one on record that was bald. The tribes, na- 
tions or peoples that never shampoo are noted for 
their luxuriant growths of the hair of the head. Too 
much shampooing is like too much drinking; it is de- 
structive, under the false impression that it is good 
in its effects. This shampooing leads to the forma- 
tion of simple baldness which gradually spreads under 
the influence of the modern methods of caring for the 
hair that are in vogue, especially in barber shops. 

The prevention of baldness is a problem which in- 
volves so many conditions that as a rule, L be 
very much difficulty in carrying them out. To begm 
with, there must be an absolute cessation of all ex- 
cesses in haccho el venere, and no overwork in busi- 
ness or speculative ventures. In fact, the life must 
be perfectly neutral in color and absoL 
Women must not worry over J cast 

aside all ambition to become leaders of societ> 
other foolish ideas whose accomplishment only leads 
to destruction of peace of mind and to a nervous break- 
down and physical disability 5uch are i 
of these petty ambitions. In men too much pie: 
such as it may be. too much of the ;: 
table, as they now exist, and too much of a 
to increase the internal revenue of the goveromer 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

also prone to lead to baldness, and the relinquishment 
of all will prevent the loss of hair. The prevention 
is, perhaps, in this case, more difficult to carry out than 
the cure. 

There is the essential atrophy of the hair not in 
quantity but in quality. In this condition we notice 
that the hair is much finer than the normal and it is 
most apt to attack blondes, although it is also noticed 
in some brunettes. The deep black hair is seldom if 
ever attacked by this form of atrophy. 

The first indication of loss of hair may be treated 
in such fashion that the processes will be arrested. 
One of the successful means of attaining this end is 
to subject the scalp to a galvanic stabile current of 
a strength of about six milliamperes for ten minutes 
daily. This in connection with a stimulating lotion will 
not alone stop the loss of hair, but will promote its 
growth, both of which are much desired conditions. 

After a thorough mild shampoo of the hair as has 
just been described above, a very good practice is 
to afford this selfsame hair some fertilizer. This is 
best represented by a bland oil which should be ap- 
plied thoroughly but very thinly, and only at com- 
paratively long intervals. There is not much oil re- 
quired to keep the hair in good condition and prevent 
its drying, splitting or breaking off. 

The scalp is occasionally the seat of eruptions that 
may be pimples (papules), mattery pimples (pus- 
tules) and small lumps (gummy tumors), and all of 
these have a peculiar dark red color, or show dark 
yellow pus or a glairy fluid that exudes. No matter 
what the peculiarity of the eruption may be, there is 
one characteristic which never fails — none of them 
ever itches — the rule with all luetic (syphilitic) erup- 
tions. They are not necessarily the sign of bad con- 
duct in the past or remote few months. But they 
are the signs of a luetic (syphilitic) infection and the 
sooner the case is placed in the hands of a capable 

Page One Hundred Twenty-Four 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

physician the more hope there is of its rapid disap- 
pearance. One thing is certain; when the pustules 
give way to ulcers, scars will eventually form and these 
will lead to a permanent loss of hair in all the affected 
portions. So the best preventive of such a condition 
is good specific treatment. 



Page One Hundred Twenty-Five 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



GRAY HAIR. 

The general belief is that grayness of the hair is the 
sign of old age, when, as a matter of fact, many 
young people are what is denominated as prematurely 
gray. In some instances it is a family trait and there 
are families in which all the members are gray by the 
time that they have arrived at their twentieth year. 
This is not premature senility, or the result of trouble 
or of a sudden shock, but it is simply a habit in the 
family. Such examples are sufficiently numerous to 
be observed quite often, and are not rarities by any 
means. Those who have these gray hairs, are such 
as lead regular lives and are seemingly well satisfied 
with these signs of an age which does not really exist. 
The presence of white hair is almost as frequently 
observed, and our white-haired friends have very happy 
dispositions and do not bemoan these snows upon their 
heads, but rather like the condition. They would not 
dye it if they could. Still there have been some young 
women with white hair who attempted to dye it and 
then finally resolved to let the white hair stand, as 
they looked much better and younger with it. The 
fact that white hair increases the appearance of youth 
should be a strong enough argument to make white 
hair fashionable. Some two hundred years ago all the 
young people wore white wigs and they were not one 
whit older in their looks or manners. But it was the 
fashion, and fashion covers a multitude of sins. Were 
it in our power today we would make gray hair and 
white hair the ultra-fashionable color, and a return 
to the days of powdered hair would once more appear 
normal. 



Page One Hundred Twenty-Six 



CHAPTER XXV. 



PRACTICAL PRESCRIPTIONS. 

It may be just as well to state that when directions are 
given to apply a lotion to the scalp the proper method of 
doing so be specified. The best and most practical as well as 
most cleanly is to take five or six thicknesses of gauze which 
has been sterilized; saturate it with the lotion and apply to 
the scalp, as if it were an oil. 

BALDNESS. 

Ointment of 1 0% oleate of mercury . . One-half ounce 

Lanolin One-half ounce 

Rub well into scalp. 

# # # 

Tincture of capsicum Two drachms 

Water of ammonia One ounce 

Pilocarpine hydrochloride Five grains 

Cologne Two ounces 

Use on the scalp twice daily. 

# # # 

Fluid extract of Pilocarpine Two ounces 

Soap liniment Three ounces 

Use on scalp once daily. 

# f * 

Beta naphthol Four scruples 

Alcohol Four ounces 

Oil of roses Two drops 

Apply to the scalp twice daily. 

# # # 

Resublimed resorcin Ten grains 

Beta naphthol Five scruples 

Alcohol ....Six ounces 

Apply to scalp once daily. 

Page One Hundred Twenty-Seven 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

Tincture of cantharides One drachm 

Resorcin Six grains 

Bay rum Five ounces 

Verbena extract One drachm 

Apply to scalp twice daily. 

Pilocarpine muriate Ten grains 

Chloroform liniment Four ounces 

Cologne Two ounces 

Apply to scalp three times daily. 

Precipitated sulphur One and a half drachms 

Cold cream One ounce 

Apply to scalp on a gauze pad very thin once daily. 

Beta naphthol Fifteen grains 

White vaseline One-half ounce 

Cold cream One-half ounce 

Apply thin on a gauze pad at night. 

Muriate of pilocarpine Three grains 

Pure lanolin One ounce 

Cold cream One ounce 

Apply to scalp on gauze pad three times daily. 

Resorcin One drachm 

Beta naphthol One scruple 

Compound tincture of cinchona Three drachms 

Bay rum . Three and one-half ounces 

Apply thin on gauze pad to scalp twice daily. 

Oil of gaultheria One drachm 

Sulphuric ether One ounce 

Apply very thin on gauze pad to the scalp once 
daily. 

Page One Hundred Twenty-Eight 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

Muriate of cocaine Ten grains 

Bismuth subnitrate One and one-half drachms 

Glycerite of starch One ounce 

Apply on a gauze pad twice daily. 

Corrosive sublimate Three grains 

Alcohol One ounce 

Apply on a gauze pad three times daily. 

Tincture of Spanish fly One-half drachm 

Tincture of Capsicum One-half drachm 

Castor oil Two drachms 

Cologne One and a half drachms 

Apply on gauze pad twice daily. 

BARBER'S ITCH. 

Resorcin Ten grains 

Pure lanolin One-half ounce 

Cold cream One-half ounce 

Apply thin on a gauze pad twice daily. 

# # # 

Oleate of copper One-half drachm 

Pure lanolin Six drachms 

Olive oil Two ounces 

To be applied several times daily. 

* * * 

Resorcin One drachm 

Glycerine Two drachms 

Rose water ointment • .Two ounces 

Apply thin on a gauze pad twice daily. 

• DANDRUFF. 

Beta naphthol One scruple 

Precipitated sulphur One and a half drachms 

Bay rum Six ounces 

Apply on a pad to scalp twice daily. 

Page One Hundred Twenty-Nine 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

Ammoniated mercury ointment. . . .One-half drachm 

Cold cream . . . . One ounce 

Apply on a gauze pad three times daily. 

Nitrate of mercury ointment One drachm 

Vaseline One ounce 

Apply on gauze twice daily. 

Yellow sulphate of mercury One scruple 

Cold cream One ounce 

Apply thin on gauze pad three times daily. 

Corrosive sublimate Two grains 

Compound tincture of benzoin One ounce 

Apply on gauze pad once daily. 

Green soap One-half ounce 

Alcohol Eight ounces 

Filter. Take a tablespoonful, shampoo the scalp 
and then dry. 

Beta naphthol Six scruples 

Alcohol Three ounces 

Bay rum Three ounces 

Apply on a gauze pad to scalp twice daily. 

Resorcin One drachm 

Beta naphthol ■ One scruple 

Compound tincture of cinchona. . . . .Three drachms 

Bay rum Six drachms 

Apply on a gauze pad to scalp twice daily. 

Chrysarobin One drachm 

Lanolin One-half ounce 

Cold cream . . One-half ounce 

Apply thoroughly on a pad to scalp once daily. 

Page One Hundred Thirty 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



FALLING OF THE HAIR. 

Distilled witch hazel Five ounces 

Corrosive sublimate Ten grains 

Use on the scalp twice daily. 

# # # 

Tincture of nux vomica One ounce 

Spirits of rosemary Two ounces 

Alcohol Two ounces 

Apply several times a day. 

# * * 

Olive oil Two ounces 

Spirits of lavender Two drachms 

Cologne Two ounces 

Apply to scalp several times daily. 

# # & 

Resorcin Ten grains 

Oil of neroli Five drops 

Bay rum Six ounces 

Use three times daily. 

f£> tf> ifr 

Spirits of camphor One ounce 

Ammonia water . . . Two ounces 

Rose water Six ounces 

Use three times daily. 

FOR AN IRRITATED SCALP. 

Bismuth subnitrate One-half drachm 

Oxide of % zinc Forty grains 

Rose water ointment One ounce 

Apply twice daily by means of a gauze pad. 

A NICE APPLICATION FOR USE AFTER 
SHAVING. 

Powdered camphor One scruple 

Alcohol Twenty drops 

Boiled starch One-half ounce 

Page One Hundred Thirty-Ope 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

INSECT BITES AND INJURIES. 

Carbolic acid One-half drachm 

Camphor water Four ounces 

Boric acid Twenty grains 

Cologne Two ounces 

Apply twice daily. 

* * * 

Oleate of zinc ointment One drachm 

Oleate of mercury ointment One drachm 

Cold cream Two ounces 

Apply thoroughly three times daily. 

Borax Two drachms 

Rose water Four ounces 

Apply liberally. 

Corrosive sublimate Four grains 

Cologne Six ounces 

Apply liberally. 

ITCHING OF THE SCALP. 

Borax One ounce 

Alum One ounce 

Dissolve in a pint of hot water and apply mixture 
over scalp. 

Carbolic acid One-half drachm 

Distilled witch hazel One-half pint 

Apply to scalp. 

* * * 

Corrosive sublimate Two grains 

Ammonia muriate Four grains 

Carbolic acid Two drachms 

Glycerine Two ounces 

Rose water Four ounces 

Apply to scalp. 

Page One Hundred Thirty-Two 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

PARASITES (ANIMAL). 

Tincture of staphisagria Four ounces 

Apply thoroughly to scalp every day for a week. 

PERSPIRATION (EXCESSIVE). 

Subnitrate of bismuth One-half ounce 

Powdered oleate of lead-zinc One-half ounce 

Dust frequently where perspiration exists. 

*F *P *P 

Beta naphthol Twenty grains 

Salicylic acid One drachm 

Powdered carbonate of zinc Two ounces 

Dust over the parts. 

Hydrastis hydrochlorate Five grains 

Cologne Four ounces 

Apply frequently to surface. 

PERSPIRATION (ODOROUS). 

Oleate of zinc One-half ounce 

Powdered starch One ounce 

Salicylic acid One ounce 

Dust over the scalp. 

# # # 
One-half per cent, solution of formalin ... Six ounces 
Apply twice a week. 

TO MAKE DRY HAIR ACQUIRE A 
LUSTRE. 

Honey ° ne ounce 

Glycerine • One-half ounce 

Cologne One-half ounce 

Alchool • • .Two ounces 

Apply very thin with a gauze pad to the hair. 
Page One Hundred Thirty-Three 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



Finest virgin olive oil Two ounces 

Any toilet water. One ounce 

Apply as mentioned in previous formula. 

# # # 

Gum benzoin One-half ounce 

Alcohol Eight ounces 

Dissolve and filter. Add 

Castor oil Four ounces 

Oil of geranium One drachm 

Oil of bergamot One drachm 

Apply with a gauze pad very lightly. 

* * * 

Veal fat p our ounces 

Spermaceti Two ounces 

£* sto r , 011 Two ounces 

Oil of bitter almonds One-half drachm 

Oil of cloves One drachm 

Oil of bergamot Two drachms 

Melt together and add the perfume as mixture gets 
cold. 

This makes an elegant pomade and should be ap- 
plied very thin to the hair by means of a gauze pad 
or the fingers. 



MEDICATED SOAPS. 
The soaps that may be used to apply to the different 
conditions of the scalp are sulphur, tar, bichloride, 
carbolated, beta-naphthol, ichthyol, soda soap, super- 
fatted, potash or soft soap and menthol soap. ' There 
are in addition resorcin soap and others which contain 
OI J e or two medicinal agents in combination, but those 
which have been mentioned are sufficient to meet about 
all the exigencies that may arise. 



Page One Hundred Thirty-Foui 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



HAIR AND SCALP DONTS. 

Don't let anyone shampoo you; choose carefully. 

Don't go to an unsanitary barber shop; insist on 
cleanliness. 

Don't patronize all hair-dressers ; warn your women 
friends. 

Don't take it for granted that washed hands are 
clean. 

Don't use any hair restorer ; it may cause baldness. 

Don't adopt everyone's advice; it may be dangerous. 

Don't be too ultra; be sensible and reasonable. 

Don't play doctor; it's a long and arduous road. 

Don't be an oracle unless you have a good inter- 
preter. 

Don't volunteer your services; they are never ap- 
preciated. 

Don't laugh at a bald head; remember what hap- 
pened to the boys who mocked Elijah. 

Don't believe that hair can be raised on an egg. 

Don't think that household remedies are the best. 

Don't imagine that the only good things are from 
abroad. 

Don't have all your white hair pulled out. 

Don't let a barber give you a vibratory treatment. 

Don't pull out the hair to see if it is falling out. 

Don't treat yourself; consult a good physician. 

Don't use perfumed soap. 

Don't adopt the suggestions of barbers or of hair- 
dressers. 

Don't trust in recipes published in newspapers. 

Don't use patent medicines. 

Don't use poor cosmetics. 

Don't treat your hair and scalp ; take care of them. 

Don't use hair dyes. 

Don't have the hair cut too often. It may cause 
disease. 

Don't use oil or vaseline on the hair. 

Page One Hundred Thirty-Five 



PROPER CARE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 



Don't 
Don't 
Don't 
Don't 
Don't 
Don't 
Don't 
Don't 
Don't 
Don't 

look. 
Don't 

good. 
Don't 

first. 
Don't 
Don't 
Don't 
Don't 

sionally. 



shampoo too often. 

use too hot curling irons. 

use a stiff brush to clean the scalp. 

use a fine-tooth comb too often. 

use a turkish towel to redden the cheeks. 

use laundry soap for the toilet. 

shave the hair on the arms ; it makes it grow. 

shave the eyebrows; it's not sensible. 

borrow a washrag; buy a new one. 

have the hair cut too often ; it gives a rough 

repeat anything unless you know it to be 

belittle the efforts of others; prove yourself 

shampoo roughly; use the mild method, 
try anything of which you are not sure, 
be always experimenting ; produce results, 
try to improve on others; originate occa- 



Page One Hundred Thirty-Six 



